At the bottom position, the Athlete's chest and hips must touch the ground. At the top of the movement, both hands must make contact with the target 6 inches above your max reach.The target above my head really killed me. Heart rate 151bpm one minute after.
Made it to Antrebloc for just over an hour today. It was a bit packed, and the holds were grimy (reminds me a bit of Brooklyn Boulders), but I managed to get some climbing done. Their grading system is color-based, and I don't remember it very well, but it doesn't take much to figure out when something is too hard for me. I stuck mostly to vertical problems since I'm so weak these days. Climbed 3 yellows (V0-V1?), 3 greens (V3?), 1 blue (V4?), and spent the remaining time getting spit off of a blue that required a very strange bump to a shitty hold, balanced over one of those pyramid pieces (falling runs the risk of your crotch hitting the pyramid...). Green was just too overhung and I got tired. Happy to climb again.
Finally made it climbing again. It's the second time I've been on a rope since we last ice-climbed!?!?! Visited a great gym just outside of Paris. I remember Guillaume saying that nobody checks that you can actually climb in France, and that certainly seems to be the case here. As long as you can pay, you can climb... (Ha, I dug through the archives, and this is actually the place G mentioned!)
Can never remember how to convert grades, so we started off with a a 5a and a 5b+ so I could get dialed in. These felt like 5.7-5.8, which agrees with Wikipedia's handy conversion table. Can't really remember the sequence of climbs, but we mixed toproping (5c, 6a, 6b+) with some leading (5c, 6a+). I pretty quickly ran out of gas, and got rudely spit off of a 6a+ at the third clip, but I managed to finish the rest. One thing G didn't mention was that on many lead routes they have autolocking biners at the anchors. Try threading your rope through that with one hand when you're pumped! I was advised next time to bring a sling for the desperation clip...
The place is great. Big open spaces, tall walls and a good mix of routes with weird features like cracks thrown in for fun. Definitely try to make it back again.
Lazy Sunday evening at BKB for a little bouldering with Brian. With various injuries and layoffs, we took it easy: 4xV0, 4xV1, 2xV2, 1xV3, then a little pull-up ladder to finish off. Not too bad, but need to work more on both grip strength and sequencing. Finished it off with some Sly Fox Stout at Sheep Station...
Our favorite South American itinerant is back in town! On her continuing adventures, JK finally arrived in NYC this week after cliffdiving in the Brazilian jungle and skiing in the wilds of Quebec. This time of year, a girl this tan is either from Rio or Jersey...
Lots of climbing last night, B and I worked a slew of routes while waiting for Joana to show up in the downpour: V1,V2,V2+,V3,V3,V4,V4. Brian hasn't lost any form at all, working through the grades and onsighting V4. When JK finally arrived, she warmed up and quickly worked her way to V3/V4, and we jumped on a bunch of different problems in the V2-V4 range. Joana has been climbing hard in Brazil, and it really showed, especially in her endurance and stamina. Nice, hard session.
Good to see you again JK!
Packed car for an evening expedition up to New Rochelle: Guillaume, Brian, Jess, the newly professorized Alistair, and me. For some reason, conversation turned to the most raunchy things you could find on the internet (presence of Brian: correlation or causation?). I learned a few things or two, for example what an "Alistair" really means (hint: involves a sock and a really dirty mind).
We climbed a little too, if I recall correctly. Didn't get a chance to see Alistair and Jess much of the night, but I know they TRed a bunch of climbs in the 7-9 range. B, G, and I roped up to lead in the 8-10 range, starting with two mostly vertical climbs to warm up (8, 9) - Brian looked very smooth despite the long time off from pulling plastic. He then worked an awful looking 9 (black), with a bouldery, reachy start and big, off balance moves. G and I went on to two 10s, both overhanging and starting in the middle of the arch but very different in character. The first (orange) starts out strenuous immediately, small pockets and delicate face moves, going to and passing over an overhanging arete, then passing a small overhang (crux) and finishing with some fun but sketchy moves to the anchors. I felt strong at the start, but baffled by some of the sequence up higher, at and past the overhang - took a few hangs to work it out; G made the finish look a lot smoother. The second 10 (black) starts in the same area but goes straight up the arch and exits right to the face and then the anchors; overhanging but juggy holds the whole way, more pumpy but less delicate. Totally pumped by then end, and had to hang a few times; G raced up the climb, hanging once right below the anchors. Should be getting to the point soon where we can send these kinds of climbs in one go.
Good night of work, long trip getting home through the Manhattan maze. A little MJ closed out the night...
Warm-up:
500 m row
foam rolling
snatch long pull, power snatch (to 125)
snatch (to 145)
back squat (low-bar; 225)
5x2 back squat (safety-bar; 185)
4 rounds:
prowler (high grip, then low grip; 90#)
Messed around with the farmer's walk with 90# on each bar.
Just trying to get the body moving again. Everything felt ok, if a little weak. The safety-bar squats were horrendous; just as described by Dave Tate. Also seems to eliminate any advantage of a belt; a bit like high-bar squat in that respect. And the name seems to be a misnomer, there doesn't seem to be a safe way to bail with this bar on your back...
Three and two are straightforward: last Sunday, the trio of us (Brian, Guillaume, and I) headed back to the Catskills for our second foray onto the ice in as many weeks. As for one, Guillaume took his first big whipper on lead ice; haven't seen that big a fall in quite a while, and certainly not on anything as sketchy as a screw - it was quite impressive, more on it below.
With a four day cold snap this week and warmer temps forecast for the weekend, we decided to get an early start on the ice this weekend, hoping to beat the crowds and jump on relatively unhacked ice. Left the city Friday night and convened for some preparatory shenanigans in G's cabin in the Catskills: examining G's pipe collection, squeezing on a swami belt, and trying to stay warm. We bunked down later than intended, but still set the alarm for the relatively leisurely wakeup time of 6 am.
The Man in Black
Rolled in to the end of the road above Devil's Kitchen around 8, and dropped down into the gully to find it completely empty. First up was a relatively short, stepped vertical line right near the top of the gully - Stairway to Heaven (WI3-3+). Colder temps than forecast, the ice was brittle and hard and coated with a shiny sheen. Vertical climbing to a comfy ledge and small ice cave a little more than halfway, not quite big enough for me to stand in (but I kneeled for a rest). Two more short vertical sections to the typically uncomfortable Catskills topout - snow, a little frozen grass, and rock. Felt comfortable on the start of the lead, spacing screws out well, but as I got tired I slammed in more screws, which subsequently got me more tired - need to get more endurance, and a more solid lead head. B and G ran up the line quickly, and we headed down-gully to find more ice.
G spotted a great looking line: Snotsicle (WI4), a big vertical column spilling down from a overhang. It sits at the top of a steep slope, which was littered with the remains of the neighboring free-hanging column where Point and Shoot (WI5) lives. Looked intimidating, but G roped up and headed out from the right side (a steeper start than the left). Putting in a few screws, he moved up the steep start and out left to the front of the column, angling right again for a ledge in the column. A good four feet above his last screw, he popped a foot highstepping onto the ledge. I can see the details in slow-motion: the plummet sideways and down, the rope coming taught, tools flying out and down the approach slope. Afterwards, G was a foot off the ground and totally unscathed. Whew! Big fall, probably due to multiple factors, including distance above pro, rope stretch on a double line, Brian getting pulled forward, as well as a deployed screamer (nice trophy!). G was eager to head back up for revenge, but wiser heads prevailed and we headed up to downlead and pull the screws.
What was a quiet morning had turned into a zoo by this point, with multiple individual parties as well as a big guided group on TRs in lower Devil's Kitchen. We decided to head down for the two moderate pitches of Bridal Veil Falls. Easy hike down the gully, with a small rap on the kill at the base of Lower Bridal Veil - probably downclimbable, but we threw a rope. Lower Bridal Veil is short and straightforward though not overly protectable, WI2-2+ depending on conditions with a snowy topout on the frozen creek - G quickly led up to a tree, stopping to only place one screw. Upper Bridal Veil is taller, with multiple lines, easier and ledgey on the right to steeper and vertical on the left. We picked a line up the middle left (WI3?), vertical enough to get the heart rate up but stepped enough to provide good stances for sinking screws. The line we climbed headed up rightwards before trending back left to topout, with a sketchy section in the middle where cascading water ran behind a few-inch thin layer of clear, hard ice.
Dropping in to Lower Bridal Veil
The stealth belay
Good day out, especially with everyone coming out in one piece. And real good to know that the gear works as advertised (never heard the screamer deploy, despite its name). I realize we still don't have enough miles under our belts to be consistent judges of our limits, climbs that are easily within our reaches on TR and still hard on lead (we noticed that many parties stick to TR in Devil's Kitchen). Dialed it down, likely wisely, midway through the day, retreating on Snotsicle as well as saving a nice looking line by Upper Bridal Veil (Tiers of Joy WI4) for another day. Finished everything off with G's excellent mussels and fries.
More pics here and here.
Approaching Plattekill Falls
Rapidly rising temperatures this past week suggesting that perhaps the groundhogs may be on to something, we decided to get some ice in before spring arrives. Recent (mis)adventures in Colorado notwithstanding, this was going to be our first day swinging axes in the Catskills this season and a long-awaited return to climbing of any kind for Brian. Last night, I packed my gear, set the alarm for 4, and ignoring the cat's befuddlement at the early bed time tried to catch some sleep.
Still way dark out when I left the house, and the Lower East Side was still crowded with the usual late night crowd: smokers, drinkers sobering up after last call, and empty cabs. Much quieter as I headed far uptown to pick up Brian, up in the skinny part of the island. Soon enough we were on our way to a rendezvous at G's house to consolidate in his newly retrofitted winter gladiator minivan. Despite my inability to follow directions, we arrived only 20 minutes late, with the sun barely up and G still in a patient mood (not sure how long that would have lasted, and no real desire to find out).
Best decision of the day was a group one to forgo familiar ground for new terrain. Neither G nor I were particularly raring to lead super steep stuff, but wanted something challenging and interesting. Luckily, Brian convinced us it was time to take it to the next level. So instead of the usual Stoney Clove routes, we headed for Platte Kill Cove, home of a mix of routes from moderate to hardman in the Devil's Kitchen (Hell Hole) area as well as a series of scenic, varied frozen waterfalls (Plattekill, Bridal Veil, and Japanese Falls). Parking was easy, at the turnaround where the road is closed off and unplowed for the winter, and we were early enough to nab one of the last open spots.
Ten minutes of hiking down the road led us to a tracked path down past a red barn; from there, the easy approach heads into the trees and forks at a group of hemlocks, with the right path dropping into the clove and emerging at the kill right below Plattekill Falls. We got there as a local was soloing, halfway up the ice and likely almost done with his morning lap up the series of descending falls. We exchanged pleasantries as we unracked and roped up and he topped out ("Really wet one today", "When the sun comes over, it's going to make some funny sounds" come to mind), and soon enough G was ready to lead.
The formation looked in good enough shape, but the recent warm weather was clearly taking its toll. Running water was easily audible both beneath the snow on the frozen creek and behind the falls, and a fine mist shot over the right side of the falls (getting progressively heavier as the sun came over). Left side was good and relatively dry though, with a short vertical section leading to a slabby ramp and final vertical section. Felt like WI3 to me, at least as a second. G looked great, steady on the warmup, controlled placing screws and comfortable in his swings and kicks. Both B and I TRed up, cleaning screws on the way, and we all came down to TR a steeper line on the left side. Much fun, with a steep overhanging start (with an ice bollard!), a slabby walkup in the middle, and a pumpy and intimidating steep finish. Highlight of the day was Brian knocking off a microwave-sized block and shielding himself his head and neck, reinforcing my conviction of the hardness of his noggin.
G runs up the first climb of the day
A frozen Plattekill Falls (and as it looks in summertime)
Comfy belay at the top of the falls
Brian heads up the left side bouldery start
I'm right below where Brian tried to brain himself
What do you mean a messy coil?
By midday the sun was directly on the falls, and things were considerably wetter and more delicate; we decided to search for more shaded ice and headed for Devil's Kitchen. A bit of a tricky spot to find, being unsure of the specifics of the layout. From the approach trail, we could tell we were in the trees above the cliffline overlooking Devil's Kitchen, but despite some exploratory postholing through deep snow we couldn't find a safe way down. We decided to backtrack to Plattekill Falls and follow the stream downhill into the clove, but found several parties climbing off the top of Bridal Veil Falls. After talking things over with a local climber belaying from the top, we decided the easiest way was to head back to the road, where an easy drop-in to the gully at the stone bridge landed us right at the top of Upper Devil's Kitchen.
A couple of parties were in the upper section, but the west side of the gully was in the sun and many of the columns looked wet and ready to come down. However, in the lower gully, many of the east routes were still shaded, blue and solid. Lots of steep lines to choose from, we settled on a 4ish line near the second of three consecutive corners. The business of the climb comes early, after 8-10 feet to a ledge, with 40 feet of straight on vertical climbing in a shallow runnel between two larger columns to another slopey ledge. Decent stems if you have long legs, more vertical and pumpy if you don't. The last third or so of the climb heads up into the corner forming a little ice chimney, with bolts at the top where the ice peters out into rock. G gave me the first lead, and I felt pretty good at the start, soloing up to the first ledge to place an easy first screw. Good distance to the second screw, but it was a pretty crappy placement, all air, so I leaned out way right to sink another backup in. Didn't get good placements on either, and left both of them only partly in the ice. Could have (and should have) pushed higher, but the pump clock was ticking and I couldn't get over the insecurity of getting too high over my crappy placements, so I lowered to let G have a go. Like a soldier, he charged ahead and led from my highpoint up to the ledge, sinking plenty of good screws on the way. He finished off by scratching his way up the corner ice system to the anchors to set up a TR. We finished up by TRing the middle line, as well as a more consistently vertical line to the left (solid WI 4 or 4+). Great sustained climbing, not super long but no real great rests either.
Second Corner (WI4), line number 8 (via Bigfoot Mountain Guides)
Some climbers on a WI5 to the left
A decent stem to place some gear
G cleans up my mess
The return of Climbin' Brian
Great day all around with a good friendly crew: explored a new area in comfortably warm temps, got G and me back into a leading frame of mind and Brian back into climbing mode. The DK area is much more scenic than Stoney Clove, though I get the feeling it can get pretty crowded. Climbing the falls was a nice change from typical ice cragging, eventually I'd like to link up a few of the falls for some multi-pitch adventure.
Looks almost just like him...
Now that's better
Let's hope the groundhogs were wrong and there's some winter left in this year yet. Thanks to Brian for the great pics (and remembering his camera).
Warm-up:
back squat (to 225)
3x5 back squat (low-bar; 235)
3x5 bench press (155,2x150)
12-12-6 chinups
Still a bit jetlagged today, and feeling tired. Squats were ok, but I'm cheating a bit by switching to low-bar. I just didn't feel like grinding out reps today. Not sure if I will continue the progression this way. Bench sucked.
Warm-up:
600 m row (~2'/500m)
back squat (lots, to 205)
3-3-1 back squat (high-bar;230)
2-2-2- back squat (low-bar;225)
10-10 chinups
Completely fried today. Gave up on squats, but since I was at the gym, I messed around with some low-bar squats just to see how they felt. Ok, but I forgot how uncomfortable racking the bar in that position is. That, and my hammies felt weak!
