Going Disco on the Rock

K and I were headed for the Gunks this weekend.

It rained all night Friday, and so we postponed our 5:30AM wake up time to a leisurely 11AM departure on Saturday. It was still a bit wet, but most of the rock was dry, and the place was almost empty: sweet! We did 2 classics on day 1:

P1 of Yellow Ridge: traverse into a burly offwidth

Guillaume about to go wide

Linking pitches up high

Thin traverse starting out on P2

Arete to crux


Yellow Ridge 5.7: I did the first 2 pitches in one go as described on Mountain Project. I certainly made the offwidth as ungraceful as possible and I got so pumped that I thought I would peel at any moment, including when it was time to put pro in at the top. The rest of the climb went well although I was not super comfortable on the belay. K took the last pitch, awesome lead up a slippery slab after a traverse (which made me uber nervous as I could see his shoes slowly sliding down the rock...) and then up a big roof. Very nice varied climb.

Ticket to Disneyland


Disneyland 5.6: Kenway lead both pitches in one go. Impressive job. The face climb to start is not trivial. Then the mantel is hard! Really no feet. After that you are stuck on an awful ledge with a roof right above you which means you can't stand up. After that it goes up an open book and up a roof. Stellar lead, tiny feet, job well done.

This was followed by too much food at the Guilded Otter.

On Sunday we opted for another late start. The day was beautiful, and although the parking lot was not full, the wall certainly was. We opted for two short fun single pitches on day 2:

Sente: three bolts and the truth

Fingertips and foot smears


Sente 5.9 (see also http://themonkey.club/2013/03/march-madness.html): We waited as there was a party on it. Then I lead the fun sport-trad combo, putting in a piece before the first bolt and one after. The moves are delicate and you need to commit to your feet, but its all there. Kenway followed, and then I did it again on TR.

Double Clutch 5.9+ (see also http://themonkey.club/2012/03/horseman-double-clutch-and-ballnut-2.html and http://themonkey.club/2012/02/snow-days-pro-days.html): Kenway did the traverse with no protection until the piton: crazy! He put in a couple more pieces and then tried the move over the ledge, but the traverse had drained him too much. This meant it was my turn to try, I add a piece early in the traverse because I am afraid of dying... then reached the point where K had stopped and took a rest. On the next go, I used the heel hook, went for it, blind as my face was turned into the rock, barely got the tip of one finger to reach, and slowly managed to bump my hand in position! Really fun move. The rest of the climb is easy. Kenway did it after me and found a very different sequence I have never heard off but it worked very well for him.

I then dropped him off at the Mohonk Mountain House where he is staying for a fancy conference in the coming days. Great weekend, super classic climbs, a bit of everything: slabs, overhangs, offwidths, cracks. Pictures coming soon.

Route log:
Yellow Ridge (7)
Disneyland (6)
Sente (9)
Double Clutch (9)

March madness

Visited G in his cabin in the woods last weekend looking to get out and climb. Even after we woke in the morning and dumped our rock gear in the back of the truck, I wondered if we made the right call of rock vs. ice. It was still pretty cold out (temps around freezing) and there was plenty of snow on the ground. Things didn't look better at the West Trapps lot: we were the only car there at 7 AM, and the trail and carriage road were under plenty of snow.

Empty parking lot!

Snowy approach

A little ice left

Things looked up further down the road, the rock was relatively dry and the sun was coming up. We headed down to the V3/Middle Earth area and climbed through the snow to the bottom of Thin Slabs Direct (5.7+). The original start goes at 5.6 but is pretty unprotected (Rish) until a bolt 30 ft up; G jumped on the direct start, which is a little tougher climbing (5.7) but provided more pro at the outset. Good lead, especially for the start of the season, well protected low and appropriately runout higher up. Fun, technical slab climbing with relatively good feet and smallish handholds, with a steeper vertical finish to a tree belay at a ledge 100 ft up. I followed up, and found it cold enough that feeling my hands and feet made it tricky.

Start of Thin Slabs Direct (5.7)

A nice comfortable belay

Keeping cool

Alpine light?

Slushy

P2 is easier climbing (5.3?); I went off the ledge to the right, up to a large overhanging flake which you undercling to exit up and left to layback up to a ledge. With water running freely, it took me three cams before I worked up the nerve to commit to the layback and move up to the ankle-deep snow on the ledge. From there, an easy traverse left led to a straightforward left-facing corner to the next tree belay. In hindsight, you could probably lead straight up off the P1 belay, less protectable but probably uncomplicated face climbing to the final corner. With the wet and chilly weather, we skipped the money third pitch hand traverse, but it looks like a definite target for later this season.

But what does MP say about that third pitch?

Thin Slabs Direct P3 hand traverse pitch


Rapping down, we set up a TR to run the original start of Thin Slabs as well as the neighboring slab "sport" route Sente (5.9). Thin Slabs P1 was similar climbing but leading would involve some delicate unprotected climbing to the bolt. Sente was loads of fun, super delicate slab climbing with tiny hands and marginal-to-decent feet (I'm pretty sure G pulled off a no hands step up at one point). Leadable, there's a horizontal for initial pro before the first of three bolts which close out the relatively short climb.

Heading back, we finished up with a serviceable attempt to lead Red Cabbage (5.9-), on the right side of the Dirty Gerdie block. The route goes up a vertical fingers-to-thin hands crack, eventually heading around the arete to the left to easier face climbing up to the top. I overprotected going up, and wore myself out with poor crack technique (gotta remember to keep the toes in the crack). After G gave it a go, we threw down a rope from the top and finished it out on TR. At least on TR, you can exit up and right when the crack peters out before heading left, but it involves a dynamic throw to a small pebbly horn; the better option is probably heading left around the arete from a little lower. Pro beta: the crack eats pro, including a bomber large nut near the top; the tricky part is leaving enough room for your fingers. Doubles would be nice on this route, BTW. It will be good to jump on this again with a little more endurance in the tank.

Start of Red Cabbage (5.9-)


Great start to the season. As the weather warmed, plenty of groups arrived, mostly climbing near the Uberfall, but it was relatively uncrowded further down. Still working to dial down my racking system, but we did better about streamlining gear and the general process. More pics here.