Started the day with an easy 2 mile run at the Ashokan reservoir with G and Ariane. Certainly a pleasant environment for a run, and good compensation for a 6 am wakeup on a Sunday. Followed that with a good day of laid back TR climbing at Peterskill with Jess and Emile.
We headed for Dickie Barre, a newly developed area at Peterskill dedicated (mostly) to TR routes, with shiny new anchor bolts at the top of some of the routes. Not having a route map or even knowing the full extent of the area, we started the morning at the far left of the crag, where an easy walkaround allowed us to put down a rope at bolts over a short arete (I think MP has this area called the Bullwheel Faces). We climbed two routes in the 5.5-5.6 range there, starting either to the left or right of the arete, with both exiting on the right side at the top. Nice job by Jess and Emilie taking the plunge on those two routes, which were primarily face climbing between rounded horizontals.
First climbs of the day (Emily's Endeavor and Jess's Jaunt)
We next headed to climber's right, where G scouted out several good lines beneath an imposing roof (in area MP labels the
Playground). Between G's bright orange static line, J+E's TR anchoring skills, and a sturdy oak tree (*far* back from the edge), we set up an anchor just to the right of the big roof and climbed three really fun routes. The first went up a small left-leaning crack/flake system, exiting up where the crack peters out to a small overhang which required - in my opinion - a rather sexy dropknee to surmount, with some additional tricky hold-seeking to get to the anchor. Even though I yarded on it on my way up, Emilie dislodged a toaster-sized flake from the crack that nearly brained G on the way down (and managed to scrape his ankle) - good reminder to not get complacent, especially in an area without significant prior traffic.
Three routes off one anchor (plus directionals)
The second route (I think it might be
Fine Pine Line 5.7) was a vertical crack directly under the large roof, requiring a directional to the left of our anchor (two nice pieces at the top of the crack, near the roof). Without the directional, a fall mid-route leads to a swing into a large tree (AKA Vlad) at the base with numerous protruding broken branch stumps - not fun, as Jess can attest. Good climb, thin fingers but easily climbed without jamming and decent feet most of the way, reachy crux in the middle. Looks easily leadable, lots of pro - not sure of the exit move at the top (MP says exit left at the giant roof).
Last, G sussed out a route about 10 feet right of our anchor requiring a directional on the other side. Easy climbing up to the roof, but burly move to latch a big jug rail at the overhang - I thought it easiest to sidepull off a crimpy piece and layback to reach it statically, G much preferred to launch dynamically from lower. Also included a requisite heel hook on the rail to get higher and surmount the overhang. Maybe 5.8ish?
Haven't climbed at Peterskill in ages, it's a quiet area without quite the grandeur of the Trapps/Nears but also without the crowds. Given the single pitch lengths and easy toprope opportunities, it's a great place to go with larger parties. I would even go back to scout out some things to lead as well. Great day out (thanks to Emilie for the awesome peach handpies!).
The look of a happy man
