Just a reminder for the old folks

John Gill still hitting the front lever at 70+ years (via the Denver Post) And BITD

Trainer FAIL

Coke + Nescafé = ???

Guillaume and I made a last-minute decision to skip the carpet-bomber and head up to the Bouldering Showdown at the TRC. Rocked out to the Harlem Shakes (and Fugazi's Waiting Room, ask for G's rendition of the bassline sometime, it's not half-bad!) on the way up as Guillaume tried his best to explain the insanity that is a bouldering competition. I had planned on just watching, as my ass was (and still is) super-sore, but Guillaume objected. What could I say?

We arrived right on time (7PM), and holy crap the gym was packed! We got our wristbands and tick lists, and started climbing shortly after. The gym had all new problems, and they set them everywhere. Problems for all styles; steep, vertical, dynamic, technical, you name it, they set it. I stayed mainly in the V3(?) range, and Guillaume stayed mostly in the range of grades above that. I jumped on a lot of really fun problems (including an awesome problem set by Msss Pssst herself), and nearly broke my neck on a long high traverse where I popped off on a mantle-to-high-foot match. Guillaume managed to finish a really tough problem that went over the tunnel; crazy hug/mantle on giant sloper. I saw many people try this and fail.

Overall, lots of fun, if a bit chaotic. I saw some of the strongest climbers I have ever seen send crazy problems, and we got a to watch BigUp Productions premier of Chris Sharma sending Jumbo Love (5.15b). 300 feet of insanity. I don't even think I could climb a 300 foot ladder.

Plus, I learned this little tidbit from Guillaume on the drive back:

Adaptation

I was reading some literature on the compressive loads experienced by the spine during deadlifts when I came across some interesting data from a study by Granhed et al. (1987). They calculated loads on the L3 vertebrae of experienced powerlifters (all of the lifters in the study were pulling over 200 kg, with a few over 300 kg). What I found interesting was that the authors reported the the annual lifting tonnage from the lifters' training records. I've re-plotted the data below:
This is essentially Granhed et als third figure, although I've switched the axes to reflect my belief in the causal variable, and included the weights for the lifters and data for control subjects.

The data isn't exactly surprising, and there's good evidence that resistance-exercise makes bone stronger (Suominen, 1993). Of course, the study was cross-sectional, so it's unclear how much increase in bone mineral content these lifters saw over the course of their individual training. It's entirely possible that only lifters with strong spines ever manage to lift a lot of weight over the course of a year, and that they experienced little or no adaptation in bone density from lifting heavy weights. Undoubtedly, this bias exists to some degree; the deadlift is an incredible selective pressure after all (I can count on one hand the number of people I've seen deadlift in my gym over 2 years; ok, that's true only if I exclude the Crossfitters, otherwise I would need two hands). Nevertheless, data from longitudinal studies in athletes suggests that increases in bone density are indeed related to training, suggesting that the above plot isn't entirely correlational.

Oh, and the forces on the lumbar spine during the conventional deadlift? No surprise, they are huge, and the worse your form, the more force you are exposing your spine to. Calculated loads for competitive powerlifters exceed 20 kilonewtons. Climbers will recognize that this is close to the rated strength of many carabiners.

Wow ... Just wow

Can a bunch of insanely bad things combine to produce something good? No, but they can make something insanely funny.

I present the Barbell Dead Clean (click for actual video):

More back squat comparisons

In a previous post, I had linked a great video comparing the low-bar and high-bar back squats. The video has been removed from YouTube, so I figured I would make my own since that post gets a fair number of hits. Cobbled together from a couple of warm-up squats at 225#.



Image below is from the bottom position, where it's a bit more obvious that in the high-bar squat the torso is more upright, the knees travel further forward bringing the hips closer to the ankles. Note that my stance is a couple of inches narrower for the high-bar squat, and I could probably stand to get my torso more upright and get a bit more depth by letting my knees drift forward more (click image for a better view, the white line indicates my knee position relative to my toes). I have to be really careful doing that since it's easy for my hips to tuck under when I sit on my ankles (not sure this is true for everyone).

Another illustration from the Performance Menu:An Olympian's high-bar squat:That's Natalie Woolfolk (photo from mikesgym.org). Instructive photos of Aimee Anaya and Greg Everett high-bar squatting can be found here.

PMenu WOD, Day 3, Week 1, Bulgarian 2

Warm-up:
back squat (high-bar; to 2x2x225#)
power snatch (to 95#)

Performance Menu WOD 111208
3x1x85% snatch (110)
3x1x85% clean & jerk (150)
3x2x85% front squat (2x205,135)

4x1 (per arm) TGU + windmill (20kg KB)

Caught the second snatch as a power snatch. Lost the make up snatch forward, just not aggressive enough getting under the bar. C+Js felt good today, although they weren't super consistent. While lifting, I noted coming up on my toes on the second lift, and a soft bottom position in the final lift. I may need to lengthen my stance in the jerk, and I definitely need to shrug more at the top of the second pull (extension in general should be stronger). Any comments on the video would be greatly appreciated.

Oh, and my warm-up squats can be seen here, if only for entertainment purposes (and no, not just cause it's a shot of my ass). Some woman let out a porn-star moan right in the middle of my second rep (crank up the sound at 00:13). As you can imagine, it took all of my willpower not to dump the weight to see who it was.

1x135#, 3x1x150#

Snapshots from the last lift.

A bestiary of RNA

A nice blurb in the NYTimes on The Promise and Power of RNA.

Some shit-talking, but not the kind you think

Although our afternoon started as a pleasant cruise up the west side, it took just a teensy a bit of traffic to turn our uncharacteristically mellow driver (like, pill-popping mellow) back into his good-ol speeding, horn-honking, brights-flashing, tire-squealing self. We managed to find parking in the bushes at the TRC, but only after Guillaume made some poor soccer mom in an SUV think we were tailing her.

With just three of us (Kenways was decorating his apartment?), the climbing was well planned, with plenty of rest between ascents. Joana worked on her lead game, alternating top-roping a stemmy 10 (blue) and trailing a rope and practicing clipping on 9s. Apparently, something Guillaume said compelled Joana to sheepishly refer to him as "master"; I don't know what that was all about, but whatever it was, her clipping was textbook.

G and I warmed up by leading a new 9 (brown/pink), after which he made another attempt at top-roping the hearts (12) up front. He got pretty close to sticking the crazy right-hand slap for the prow. Wednesday perhaps? He followed the hearts up by leading 12 (green, James), 11 (yellow) and 10b (GJV). Took a nice whipper on the 12 after clearing the three big moves up the arch and clipping the last chain, somehow managing to avoid disaster by pulling his leg clear of the rope at the last second!

I rounded out the day on a pumpy 10- up the right side of the arch (entirely negative), a new 10 (white) up the left side with a funky crux out from under the roof, and another go at leading the crimpy 11 (blue) clean (only one take 2 moves from the end this time). I gambled with my life by letting Joana belay me ;-), and I'm still alive, so I guess she was paying attention to Pierre!

As usual, some stupid car talk on the drive home; serial monogamy, Cheetos, the fact that one of J's ex-boyfriends dressed up dolls and how to make fun of your children (for their own good, of course). I even tried a behavioral economics experiment to determine what one would have to pay people to eat shit. That didn't work like all the economists keep telling me (claims that even 1 million bucks wouldn't do it!?), but for the record, I would like to state that J was the first to bring this up.

Thrust the Force, Luke

Quick addendum to Brian's climbing post to note that Guillaume also climbed the crimpy, awkward, throw your leg around the arete hearts 12 that Ms. Pssst totally rocked. She had some useful advice, though, involving Guillaume hip thrusting into the wall for, um, balance...

Kicked out by a mechanical bull

Late afternoon trip to TRC with Joana. The goal for the day was to toprope stuff that we could finish, alternating harder and easier routes and aiming for decent volume. That's right, we're tired of you other guys climbing all the 12s, it's time to get serious! We warmed up with some handstands (attempted in my case), and then jumped on the Grand Traverse (BL: 50, JK: 36 w/ a crux skip).

We didn't exactly stick to the plan, as we were both tired after the third climb (Joana was a bit fried from boxing, and me, well, I'm just lazy). However, I still think we got some good technique and decent endurance work in there. Next time we should probably pick more sustained routes with fewer opportunities to rest.

On the last climb, the DJs really cranked up the volume and started playing some house music. We didn't think much of it, and wrapped up with some easy V2/V3 bouldering and pullups. But the music was only the start of it, cause as we rounded the corner to collect our gear, we stumbled upon a mechanical bull sitting in the middle of the gym. Yup, that's right, a mechanical bull.

Turns out they were closing the gym early for a bar mitzvah party; bull-riding and climbing, that sounds awesome! They also installed a gangplank on the second floor that led to nowhere, who knows wtf that is for? We briefly entertained the idea of crashing the party as mature 12 year-olds - When the hell else would we get to ride a mechanical bull? (well, I can only speak for myself) - but eventually reasoned that the stubble on my chin would get us ejected before either of us got a chance to ride the bull anyways. Oh well, but at least this explains the mysterious stack of Bar/Bat Mitzvah books we saw last week.

Cozy crew

Guillaume, Joana and I took a quick trip to TRC. I was convinced we were going to die in the minivan just getting there. I can't recall most of it since my eyes were closed, but it involved an on-ramp, an Audi, trading cut-offs, some hardcore tailgating, accelerating where there should have been decelerating, flashing of brights, and going fast enough that my palms started sweating. Oh, and Guillaume never stopped telling whatever story he was telling (you know that thing about stress and memory, right?).

Gym wasn't too packed for a meet-up night, and it was nice to see lots of people leading. G demonstrated a remarkable about-face in his approach by deciding to warm-up! Started with the Grand Traverse (GF: 63, BL: 49), after which I lead a 10 (blue, from last time), while Guillaume warmed-up on a 9 (pink) which caused him some grief (maybe cause he had an adrenal dump during his shit-crazy driving). Joana fought up a grovely 10 (pink) that involved some rather painful-looking body-smearing. I finished leading by trying the purple 10 but got burnt out trying to get to the second chain on the roof, after which I switched to working an 11- (red) and 11 (blue) on toprope. Sent the blue eventually, but couldn't manage one of the initial moves on the red, despite repeated attempts and beta from multiple people. Guillaume, despite his less than auspicious warm-ups, kept leading some 12s with Meghan. I think he now owes her his life in addition to Kenway. Joana kept at the 10s, ticking off a blue 10, and flashing a white 10+ that wandered all over the place (we'll still count it even though you slipped off the start :-). She's definitely getting stronger, pulling bigger moves from smaller pieces and tougher angles. Guess the jumproping is paying off?

Got to watch Meghan climb a 12 (dark green). She has crazy skills. Guillaume gave it a shot too, and when he got to what looked like the crux, gave us the quote of the night:

That's where you clipped from?!?!? I'm leaving.

Coles call

Social Realism (10b) , Hellgate Tower, Little Cottonwood Canyon UT

Too much work to do to head out to New Rochelle, so settled for some bouldering at Coles with Guillaume, Chloe, Alistair, and Eric. Worked a few routes, whites (V2-3ish) and reds (V3-4ish?). Apparently the routes aren't hard enough, because G decided we should downclimb as well... sounds like a tradster to me.

Last climbing before Utah, where Eric and I will seek out some sport routes near Salt Lake City, in Big Cottonwood Canyon , Little Cottonwood Canyon, or perhaps closer to Park City (Parley's Canyon). We'll see what we can handle...

Tofueatin'

Easy recipe for some tasty protein goodness, mapo tofu is a cheap and quick meal. Ground pork is inexpensive, but the dish can easily be made with ground beef or turkey. You can skip the peppercorn powder but don't spare the hot bean paste - it's essential for the Sichuan spiciness.

For sauce
1/4 cup chicken broth
2 tablespoons hot bean paste
2 tablespoons soy sauce
Additive-free kosher salt to taste

1 lb regular or soft (not silken) tofu, drained and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons corn, peanut, or canola oil
1/2 lb ground pork shoulder (preferably 75% lean)
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon finely minced garlic
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon finely minced peeled fresh ginger
1 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in 2 tablespoons water
1 1/2 teaspoons Japanese sesame oil
1/2 to 1 teaspoon toasted Sichuan-peppercorn powder
3 tablespoons thinly sliced scallion

Make sauce: Stir together broth, bean paste, soy sauce, and kosher salt. Set aside.

Poach tofu: Slide tofu into a saucepan of simmering water and keep at a bare simmer while stir-frying rest of dish.

Stir-fry pork: Heat a wok or large heavy skillet over high heat until hot and add 1 1/2 tablespoons corn oil, swirling to coat. Add pork and stir-fry, breaking up lumps and adding remaining 1/2 tablespoon corn oil if meat sticks, until no longer pink. Add garlic and ginger and stir-fry over moderate heat until very fragrant, about 2 minutes.

Finish stir-fry: Stir reserved sauce, then add to pork and bring to a simmer. Drain tofu in a large sieve and slide into sauce, stirring gently. Stir cornstarch mixture and add to stir-fry. Bring to a boil, stirring gently, and cook until thickened and glossy, about 15 seconds. Turn off heat and sprinkle with sesame oil, Sichuan-peppercorn powder to taste, and 2 tablespoons scallion. Stir once or twice, then serve sprinkled with remaining tablespoon scallion.

Geekery

Decided to step back and take a look at the progress I've made over the last 10 weeks on the Texas Program. The squat is the only lift that I was consistent with from week to week (rotating press and bench as well as deadlifts and power cleans and rows) so those are the numbers I plot below. For reference, my last CFT was about one year ago, with my back squat at 225#, and that number had been essentially stationary until I initiated this intermediate program.

The bands demarcate Rippetoe & Kilgores' standards for max lifts, and only apply to the red data points. The widths of these bands delimit R&Ks' standards at the ranges of my bodyweight over the last 10 weeks (linear interpolation from R&Ks' table).

Up until the last couple of weeks, progress was essentially linear on the 5x5s, and the heavy singles creeping up towards 2xBW. Looking over the logs, I think the slowdown is actually due to overzealous deadlifting and a failure to eat enough to keep up with the volume. I'm gonna dial the volume down a hair this week, eat like crazy, and see where that gets me.

How fast could Usain Bolt have run?

A group of physicists make some predictions (via New Scientist):Find the full text arXiv.org: Velocity dispersions in a cluster of stars: How fast could Usain Bolt have run?, H. K. Eriksen, J. R. Kristiansen, O. Langangen, I. K. Wehus.

Finally, a tasty low-sugar sundae

Want to know the ingredients, don't you?

A steady diet of climbing

Healthy, low glycemic index indoor climbing - get some today!

Packed the minivan full today for New Rochelle: Guillaume, Eric, Alistair, Brian, world traveller Joana, and me. Think it was a rough day for most, for a multitude of reasons - return from travels, layoff rust, head games, and plain ol' exhaustion. Climbing well on off days is a skill, though, and worth practicing for the times when it's necessary to push through (alpinism, anyone?).

Notes of the night: Guillaume worked the steep roofy green/red 11 and took a *big* whipper from the face, far above the last bolt under the arch, with an armful and teethful of rope out (I swear I saw the fall and counted 2 seconds before feeling any pull on the belay). Brian worked the opening moves on his first lead 11. Alistair showed us how to get it done on an underrated V3 with a large throw to an awkward sloper, followed by a really large reach up and to the right. Meghan from TRC roped up with Guillaume and did some incredible climbing, on a tricky 11 red up the two-roof arete (which G also fought through) and a ridiculous pink 12.

I led two 11's, but head was definitely not in it. Managed to get to the top of both of them (green/red on the arch, and a fun crimpy and technical blue 11 vertical route) but chickened out of falls by grabbing off route on both of them. No mental nerve tonight; perhaps I could use a little dose of the Warrior's Way...

Grilled Asian flank steak with sweet slaw

1/4 cup soy sauce
5 tablespoons vegetable oil
5 teaspoons minced peeled fresh ginger, divided
1 garlic clove, pressed
1 1 1/2-pound flank steak
3 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons seasoned rice vinegar
2 red jalapeños, thinly sliced into rounds
5 cups thinly sliced Napa cabbage (about 9 ounces)
3/4 cup chopped green onions, divided

1) Prepare barbecue (medium heat). Mix soy sauce, oil, 3 teaspoons ginger, and garlic in resealable plastic bag. Add flank steak and seal bag; turn to coat. Let stand at room temperature 30 minutes, turning occasionally.

2) Stir sugar and vinegar in small saucepan over medium heat until sugar dissolves; remove from heat. Add jalapeños and remaining 2 teaspoons ginger. Place cabbage and 1/2 cup green onions in medium bowl.

3) Pour vinegar mixture over and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper. Let stand while grilling steak, tossing occasionally.

4) Grill steak until cooked to desired doneness, about 6 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer to work surface. Let rest 10 minutes. Slice steak thinly against grain. Sprinkle 1/4 cup green onions over slaw.

Super easy and very tasty. I increased the meat to 1.75#. Even with more meat, there is no way this is 4 servings. It's not even a big meal for 2 people. Oh, and if you use a slotted spoon or tongs to dish out the slaw, you can avoid most of the sugar.

You can view the complete recipe online here, and the nutritional breakdown here.