Krista

Today Clayton abandoned me to supposedly "work", I shall name this new routine I came up with in his honor (but since exercise routines seem to only have female names I named it after his wife who was nice enough to prepare biscottis for us this morning). Here's what I did:

1. 30 min. running
2. Krista. (I did 1.9 rounds, i.e. I ended the second round after 16 push-ups)
AMRAP
- 20 plank walk-ups
- 20 1 leg push-ups (1 foot on top of the other)
You must stay in a plank at all times, no breaks between rounds.

I really liked this as a way to finish the session. I am guessing somebody like Brian could do 5 rounds, but really I think its great at the end. One thing I like about it is that you really don't want to take a break because your core gets tired from resting in a plank and so in some sense it forces you to do it for time. Try it at the end of your next session and let me know what you think.

Back on the West Coast

Clayton and I went to the Stanford gym. We did the following:

- 25 minutes running
- 40 plank walk-ups
- 15 box jumps
- 20 burpees

Then I went to PG with Jess in the evening. We did the following:

JS: 5.9, 5.10a (lead, 1 take), 5.10d (multiple takes), 5.10c (2 takes), 5.10d (multiple takes).
GF: 5.10a (lead), 5.10c (lead), 5.11b (lead), 5.12b (lead - F), 5.12a (1 take).

Jess worked hard to finish all of her climb. I did my first 11b onsight lead, but I think the rating is not right, it felt closer to an 11a. It is also relatively short, which certainly makes it easier even though it doesn't affect the grade. The 12b was out of my league. I almost lost a finger when I fell on the third clip just as I was clipping and my finger just slipped between the rope and the biner. I unfortunately fell on the last move of the 12a that I did on TR.

Ouch, everything hurts

Yesterday I went with Clayton to the Stanford gym. We did the following.

5 x 5 back squats: 135, 155 x 4.

15 box jumps.

50 passing the medicine ball (we were back to back standing up).

20 throwing the medicine ball (on the ground, one in front of the other, once we catch it we did a sit-up with the ball above our head).

30 plank walk-ups.

3 x 15 on the support to bend forward and sideways (once on each side). GF +25, CF +10.

20 minutes rowing (2400 meters).

Today Jess, Greg and I went to Castle rock and climbed at Goat rock. We climbed the Great Roof (5.10b - 80 feet). We each took two tries on it. I sent it clean on the second try. It was a great route with hooks, knee locks, and twice you had to cut your feet. The toughest part was going into the cave (the black part on the picture) and then coming out which was quite tricky and unintuitive.

The climb was really great, and although we could unfortunately not do more, we had a great sunny day.

Greg, Muriel and I finished the evening at Tamarine around a nice dinner.

Between the gym yesterday and the longish approach today with all the gear on my back, my legs are killing me.

A run and a lead

Went to the Stanford gym for a run. Did 30 min on the treadmill. Then went to PG with Jess. Lead 5.10a, 5.10c, 5.11b (2F). The 11 b was nice, and I almost did it on the 2nd try, falling 2 moves short. I tried to get back on but could never pull that move.

Four in row

Four days of climbing in a row, but I was always too lazy to post about them. They were all short sessions, 1 to 1.5 hours. Today and yesterday Erica, Muriel and I went to PG. The girls are improving rapidly. Today they both did their first 10a, a nice long slab. I have worked on a great 11d stem-fest which is long, overhanging, and really challenging. Today I took only twice, I hope to do better next time. I also worked a 12c that's out of my league, but I can now get about half way.

V7?

Went to the Stanford wall with Clayton and Muriel. They both have graduated to working on the V1s, which they did for most of the 45 min we were there.

I did two mantel problems (1 move each), two dyno problems (both short - can almost static), 1 V3+, and I finished a V7 I had tried a few times. I can't understand how it received that rating, one guys I talked with gave it a V5 rating, I would give it a generous V4, but hey: I'll take it.

Time for a rest

Tomorrow night I am taking the red-eye to NYC and I will have 4 days without climbing, which I think should do me good as I really had no energy tonight.

First I went to the Stanford gym with Muriel for about 1 hour. Muriel worked on V0s and a traverse, followed by a 5.8. I first did a V1, V1+, and a V3+ (all including down climbing). Then I worked on a V6 (I can now do all the moves, but haven't managed to link them). I followed that with a V7 which is probably out of my league, but I can do parts of it.

After that I had a quick dinner and then left for PG to meet Jess. We wanted to take the lead test but unfortunately nobody could give it tonight. I lost track of exactly what we did but Jess climbed strong working on a few 10b, 10c, 10d, and 11a after her warm-up of 9 and 10a. I warmed up on a 10a, and then worked on a 11b, 11a, and gave three tries to my new 12a (pink) obsession. A 60 feet monster which I have tried about 7 or 8 times now. Tonight I added one move to my best performance, taking me from within 2 moves of a clean finish. Unfortunately, I did worst on both subsequent attempts.

Somebody's improving

Today I first went to the Stanford wall for a bit of bouldering. I tried warming up by doing easier problems and down climbing them, I did a two V1s, one V2, one V3+, then I tried a V4 I had tried many times before and still couldn't pull the last move. After that I worked on two V6s. The first I can do all the moves except the last, it seems to me like that move might be the 6, the rest felt like 4, but I still haven't figured out how to even go for it: left, right, cross, bump... I then worked on another V6 which first moves down and low then back up in a section where there is somewhat of an overhang around your waits, so that you feet are awkwardly placed. I think I figured out how one could do it, but I am just not strong enough.

After that I walked home, grabbed the car and headed to PG to meet Jess. On my way there I picked up my new BD Boa duffel ordered at the REI outlet that I had delivered at the local REI. Looks like a nice bag (given the price I paid), although compression straps would have been a nice addition.

At PG we did the following.

JS: 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10c (1 take), 5.10a, 5.10d (2 takes), 5.10d (multiple takes)
GF: 5.10c, 5.11c (1 take), 5.11b, 5.11c, 5.11c (1 take), 5.11c (1 take)

Jess is clearly improving, the last climb she did she had tried many weeks ago and failed. She still struggled at that same point, but after I working it she finally past through it and did the rest without a fall.

As for myself the plan tonight was not to try any 12s (which are still a bit above level). The 11c that I did clean was very strenuous, just long sustained with pinches, big and small, the fact that an employee was looking at me certainly motivated me not to fall...

Up to now we have managed to almost always climb new stuff, but I think we have pretty much exhausted everything within our reach. Tomorrow, we'll try to pass the leading test.

Quick bouldering

Tonight Muriel and I went for 1 hour at the Stanford wall. She flashed a V0 and worked a traverse. I did a V3 and then worked on a nice V5 which I managed to finish after many tries. The last two moves are the crux moves, you need to grab a huge sloper on which you can barely get enough friction because it is so open before you shoot for a door knob before the final throw. It was a great problem to work on. Its rated V5 but it feels more like a stiff V4.

My tendons started to hurt, probably because I posted about the fact that they didn't... which also made me realize that they are probably fine because I don't work as much overhanging stuff as I do at TRC.

On the edge

I can't tell if I am climbing soft because you guys aren't around and I am getting worse or if all this climbing is translating into improvements, but today at some points I felt like I was on the edge of getting better. Its hard to tell because the changes are so small. Irrespective of whether I am getting better or worse, today had a lot of nice climbing with newbies.

First, Muriel, Erica, Clayton, and I headed to the Stanford gym. The three of them were doing very well for one of their first time climbing in years. Clayton had the upper hand sending one V0+, one V0, and working on the start of a third V0+ (that one imposes the hand sequence, which makes it trickier). Erica and Muriel both sent a V0(+) and reached close to the end on the other. They followed this by a 5.7, Erica doing all but the last move, Muriel managed about half way. I did a V2, V3, and two V4s. There's a third V4 that eluded me (I couldn't stick the last move). All the problems were new, which was quite nice. Erica went to run and the rest of us headed back to the department.

I then grabbed a quick dinner and headed to Planet Granite to meet Jess and her sister Nicole (on the way there I barely avoided rear ending someone who was stopped in an exit). Nicole did 5.6 (F), 5.4, 5.5., 5.6. She was very flexible which made all the routes look easy and with a bit more confidence she would do well. Jess did a 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10b, and 5.10c (multiple takes). The 10a was a great sent for her because it was overhanging and long, two things that give her a hard time. BTW Jess started a leading class yesterday and thus I will soon have a leading partner her in CA. I did 5.11a, 5.11b (1 take), 5.12a (1 take), 5.11d (1 take), and 5.11d. It felt like I could have done all of them clean, but obviously I didn't manage. The 12 was great, involving a huge throw to a big brain over an arch, which meant you feet were hanging. The first 11d involve many difficult move with pinches. The second 11d was a crimpfest, it felt more like TRC then most routes at PG. Next time I hope to send a 12 clean.

Stanford wall take III

Today I went with Muriel for about one hour at the Stanford wall. I did a few problems (V3, V5, and V2) followed by 2.5 lengths of the traverse while Muriel worked on a V0. After that we got on a rope. She did a 5.6 followed by a 5.4. I did a 5.11 (which was very nice with many open hands friction holds on a vertical wall) followed by a 5.11 which gave me a real hard time. At first I kept on falling on the third move, and then once I past that, I fell in the middle, and it took me many tries to get it right. I definitely want to get back to this one to do it clean.

Stanford wall bis

I went back to the Stanford gym today. I did a traverse (both ways) as a warm up, then some V2s, some V3s and one V5 which is really a V4. My tendons started hurting, which I think is a result of the style of problems they set there. I think I have done all but 2 problems, hence I'll have to start improvising or training on endurance by traversing if I keep going there...

Back

I went to the Stanford climbing gym for a quick 30 min session today with Muriel. It was her first time back after years of not climbing. She worked two V0s while I did: V2, V2+, V3, V2, V4.

The V4 was fun, with a scary finish. Actually going for the last piece isn't scary, but once your done, you don't want to let go because it feels like you'll fall face first on the ground.

Stanford visit

I stopped by the Stanford U. gym today between the last session of the day (I am at a conference) and dinner. I have managed to squeeze in 45 good minutes of bouldering. The gym is new (at least it changed since 2 years ago) and small. Slightly bigger than Coles, but has a similar feel with short TR. The problems were OK, you could tell the setters are males who are about to turn 20: i.e. the problems involve reachy big powerful moves. I hooked up with one of the setters who made me try some of the unmarked problems they are working on. I climbed (their ratings): V1, V2, V3, V3, V4, V4 or 5 (failed - 3 attempts), V5 (failed 2 attempts).

I hope to go back tonight!