Week 10

Monday
   - Yoga

Tuesday
   - 8x800m
      Distance: 7.05
      Pace: 7:59

   - Climbing
      5.7, 5.9, 5.10, 5.11 (TR), 5.12 (TR - Fail)

Thursday
   - Tempo
      Distance: 6.39
      Pace: 8:04

Saturday
   - Long
      Distance: 18
      Pace: 8:31
      Elevation Gain: 1,010

Week 10 of my marathon training and first week getting back to some kind of normalcy where I can integrate yoga and climbing in the week. Yoga was very difficult, indicating its time t get back to it because I am very stiff. Climbing was better than I expected.

My long run today was the longest I ever ran. The program called for 15 miles, but since I only did 15 last week when I was supposed to do 18, I decided to do 18 today. It actually felt very good, probably because of the cool temperature.

This or that

While Ragan and Marco were taking their intro to rope climbing class; Carmen and I started bouldering in the front.

Carmen was on fire, onsighting 3 V0s on only her second time climbing: nice! I started with V0 and V2, and then we moved to the small cave area where they setup a bunch of brand new problems. I did a V3, V4, and a great black V5: no feet, two big hooks in sequence, one on the same piece as your hand.

Once Marco and Ragan finished their class, we did a bit of rope climbing. Marco did a 5.9 clean on the pillar, not bad for his first time. After a failed first attempt, I did a 5.10 on the pillar (some guy did it on lead after I failed and his beta was key). Carmen did three attempts on a 5.7.

We then went back to bouldering, M, R, and C working an interesting pink V1 (Marco managed to do it). I did a crimpy V5 yellow.

We finished with some board training. I think the training is finally showing its effects. My climbing is improving, but it might also be because bringing M, R, and C is motivating me. They are improving so much (Both R and M managed to climb a few pieces without feet during training: i.e. pullups) that its making me want to get better I think.

P.S. Some guy fell on lead on a vertical climb, flipped over after his leg got caught in the rope and came banging into the wall... he had a pretty nasty burn on his leg: ouch.

Leaving the rocks wetter than you found them...

My two days climbing in Yangshuo were sweet. I will definitely be back... however, I would suggest not coming in July or August... maybe november! I was drenched in sweat before I hit the rock. The worst was my opening lead on day two where at the crux I had to swing out from inside a crack and up over an overhang. The clipping position for the bolt just at the top of the overhang was a huge sloper. The problem was that the only clip below was just above a ledge and the fall would have been bad. Having been off climbing for a few weeks, I was tentative and in the first two attempts to clip before going up and over the overhang I had completely covered the sloper in a mix of sweat and chalk that left it like grease. Yuck. Luckily it tried quickly in the sun, but it meant that you had to do things in one move or you might have to wait... at least if your not asian. Compared to the german and other american I was climbing with, they didn't seem to be nearly as bothered by the humidity.

Oh, and the location is spectacular—if suffering from the fate of most chinese tourist destination... :-( I'll post pictures soon. Day 1: Baby Frog (morning): Frogmarch, 5.8/4+ (top-rope, then lead) Liar, 5.9/5+ (lead) Frog's Traverse, 5.10c/6a+ (top-rope) Wine Bottle (afternoon): The Miracle of Lankou, 5.9/5 (top-rope, 26m) Summit No. 1, 5.9/5 (top-rope) Shu Ba Jie, 5.10a/5+ (top-rope) Day 2: Swiss cheese morning): Spam the Chinese Ham, 5.8/4+ (lead) Captain Kirk Eats Bruchetta, 5.10b/6a (top-rope) Da Xue Pao, 5.11d!/7a! (top-rope, failed between 1/2 and 2/3 up the climb)

This last climb I made some nice moves probably in the 11a section in the first third that had me feeling ok, given my lack of climbing and gym practice. I failed at the beginning of the crux, a bump to a small right-hand crimp while balanced on the right toe with a big move out to a nice pocket for the left hand. However, on top-rope there was a bit of a swing when I failed and after a couple of goes I gave up. After that move it was balance-y and required good footwork but I probably could have made it (according to the guy who opened it) if I wasn't pumped and three-weeks out of climbing.

Thanks Ashui, Seth, Soizic and Clemens for a great couple of days climbing... Get a sense for the climbing at: http://www.climber.me/2009/02/09/beginners-guide-to-rock-climbing-in-yangshuo-china-2/ http://www.yangers.com/Yangshuo_Rock_Climbing.php#goto3 http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/Asia/China/China_Proper__South_/Yangshuo/

Return to TRC

After 1 week off, Evangeline and I headed to TRC. She did a 5.7 with a mantel, a V0, a V1 (fail on last move), V1, 5.8 (slight overhang-corner), 5.8, 5.8 slab.

I did V2, V3, V4, V4, V4, V4 fail, V6 fail.

Pushups, E 15, G 25.
Situps, E 20, G 25.
Dead-hangs, 3 x 10 secs.

Good return, Evangeline worked hard.

TRC with E

Went to TRC early with Evangeline to try her new Evolvs. Beside showing off her Autobot t-shirt, she did a 5.6, 7 slab, 7, tried another 7 she couldn't finish, and an 8 she couldn't finish. She also tried two V0s. In between I did V2, V3, V4, V5, V4 and tried a few more I couldn't finish.

She still needs to get more comfortable moving her feet up and placing her body sideways, but overall it was a good start to what we'll try to make a weekly outing.

Serra do Lenheiro, MG

There was a holiday last week in Brazil which made for a 4-day long weekend, and I went to Serra do Lenheiro (in the state of Minas Gerais), a 5-hour drive from Rio.

This climbing area is controlled by the brazilian army - its where their mountain division practices. Its close (a 15 minute drive) to a small town called São João Del Rey, and a bit further from a beautiful colonial town called Tiradentes.

You have to ask permission to the military guys to climb there and pay a small fee to access the camping grounds. Despite the long weekend, there were very very few people there... around the mountains, there is a stretch of valley with a few farms and lots of cows... very bucolic.

The climbing there its super fun, and reminded me a bit of the Gunks. A geologist friend that I went with actually said its the same type of rock as the Gunks, only ours has more iron or something and we have more plants growing on it. There are lots of cracks and some overhanging stuff and roofs (like Gunks), ans the majority of climbs are not bolted, you have to place gear (like Gunks). Also, like the Gunks, most climbs are pretty short - 1 or 2 pitch max.

The first day we started with an easy crack - probably 5.8-9ish? We then went to an even easier route - maybe a 5.7 (which I lead, yay! with placed gear though). We then went to a harder very balancey yet beautiful climb, probably 5.10b), and then, went to a small waterfall. In the afternoon, it was pretty windy and looking like it might possibly rain, so we did a top rope on a really amazing route, a 5.10c called Alta Tensão (High Tension). That's because there's not protection until after the crux move... which is pretty high up... and protection remains shitty after that. Top roping it was great though.

The next day we started on a climb called Lucifer. However, in a key point, there was an owl nest... and the owl was not very happy to see people climbing past. My friend who was leading had to downclimb (and lose a piece). We tried climbing around it and made it to the first stop, only to find the crux wet... wasn´t meant to be. On the rappel, I forgot about the owl and went way to close to it. She freaked out (and so did I, a little). I closed my eyes and went down as fast as I can. After that we hiked across the valley which was absolutely beautiful. There was this super overhung cliff with some routes. My friend lead, I remain not very good in very overhung climbs and didn't get too far on it though.

It then started to rain heavily and the military guys said they needed the campground, so we went to Tiradentes for the night. The next day it continued to rain, so we drove to Friburgo (state of Rio, another 4 hour drive) to this beautiful region called 3 picos. There is a big climbing community there, lots of climbers who set up sort of bed & breakfasts for other climbers.

It continued raining a lot so we couldn't climb :( but did some hiking and drinking which was great as well.

More pics in flickr!





ps: crazy looking hair in pictures due to intense wind :)

Something for everyone

Jess, Muriel and I went to PG today. It was Muriel's first time so she had to pass the belay test, which she did. Here's what we did:

JS: 5.9, 5.10b (2 takes), 5.10a, 5.10b (2 takes), 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10d (2 takes).
MN: 5.5, 5.6, 5.7, 5.8, 5.8 (1 take), 5.9 (F), 5.8.
GF: 5.10a, 5.11c, 5.12a (2 takes), 5.12c (F), 5.12a, 5.12a (1 take), 5.12a (multiple takes).

We all did something good today. Jess onsighted a 10b and came very close on the 10d (I think it will go next time). Muriel did her first long (60 feet) 5.8. I did my first 12 clean at PG, it was one I had tried once previously.

The 12c I tried I got to about 1/2 of the way, it looks very interesting, I'll try it again next time.

Whatever.

Jess and I were rather inconsistent today: a bit of good climbing and a lot of bad one. Our bag of excuses is full, but I'll spare you those.

We did the following:
Jess: 5.9, 5.10c (2F), 5.10b (F), 5.10a (with takes), 5.10c (F), 5.10a (with takes).
G: 5.9, 5.10c, 5.12a (1 take), 5.12a (F), 5.10b, 5.11c (F), 5.11c (clean on 2nd try), 5.12a (2F).

All the 10a looked fine for Jess, but somehow she couldn't go beyond that. I think we might have moved to quickly in level.

The first 12a I did was great. Slight overhang, very sustained, but nothing crazy. I fell 3 moves from the end. The last 12a I tried was much more overhanging and the move where I fell felt awkward, with my feet way out left and the hands need to move right on crappy crimpers. The other 12 I tried I kept on falling on the 3rd move and I really can't see how to get past it.

That's more like it

Good night of climbing for both Jess and I. We only climbed long routes: 50 to 60 feet to work on our stamina.

First 5.9, 5.10a, and 5.10b. Then Jess struggled with a great 5.10c which unfortunately she couldn't finish. It starts on a low overhang and then you need to transit to a prow and bring your feet high to continue on the rest which is also overhanging.

After that I tried a 5.11c which I thought I was going to onsight but I fell 3 moves from the end. I followed it by a different 5.11c that I managed to onsight. A great climb in 3 parts: vertical, slight overhang, then slab. All the moves more or less required that you bring your feet very high near or at your hands to move to the next hold.

Jess did a 5.10c with one take. Then she did her first 10c onsight on a different one. She climbed very well, most of her routes involved a lot of stemming.

I finished with a 5.12 that was great, but I fell at many points. Nonetheless it felt like with some work I could do it clean.