Gerdies (and another one)
We setup on No Picnic (we were using the Swain guidebook which rates it a 4+). The lead went well (except for the yellow cam I almost lost because I overcammed it), I took my time on the way down to double or change any questionable piece to make sure things were safe for the other leaders. Amalea went second and might have been too comfortable with my pro because she did not stop once to look at it... but she sure made it look easy. Phil went next on TR getting his height jitters out of the way. Brad led it and cleaned it.
Next we did Herdie Gerdie (our guidebook had it at 6+). I led it, I must say I felt some of the pro was small and marginal (I used multiple C3s, including the 000 and one ballnut). At some point (about halfway) I wondered too far right, but I came back on track. The crux was particularly difficult because the feet (friction only) were super greasy. Again, Amalea led it on my pro, then Phil went on TR, and Bradley led it last. Still seemed easy for Amalea and Bradley, but they did not stop much to study the gear placements.
Leaving the anchors in, we TRed the next two. First Dirty Gerdie (rated 8 or 8+ - can't remember - in the guidebook). That is a very interesting climb, involving a balancy mantel about 15 feet off the deck with nothing to grab with your hands until you are completely up (except if you are Amalea, in which case there's a tiny feature you can crimp... nasty I tell you). We all had fun on this one, but Amalea would need to come back later to do it clean.
I am a bit surprised that I had lead Dirty Gerdie a few years ago (see http://www.themonkeyclub.org/2009/04/let-it-snow-let-it-snow-let-it-snow.html), but I can see why I wrote that I was sketched...
Really a great day, very few people (I guess they were scared of the heat). We followed it by delicious marinated pork chops on the grill and some great local beers.



