Don't stop til you get enough
Packed car for an evening expedition up to New Rochelle: Guillaume, Brian, Jess, the newly professorized Alistair, and me. For some reason, conversation turned to the most raunchy things you could find on the internet (presence of Brian: correlation or causation?). I learned a few things or two, for example what an "Alistair" really means (hint: involves a sock and a really dirty mind).
We climbed a little too, if I recall correctly. Didn't get a chance to see Alistair and Jess much of the night, but I know they TRed a bunch of climbs in the 7-9 range. B, G, and I roped up to lead in the 8-10 range, starting with two mostly vertical climbs to warm up (8, 9) - Brian looked very smooth despite the long time off from pulling plastic. He then worked an awful looking 9 (black), with a bouldery, reachy start and big, off balance moves. G and I went on to two 10s, both overhanging and starting in the middle of the arch but very different in character. The first (orange) starts out strenuous immediately, small pockets and delicate face moves, going to and passing over an overhanging arete, then passing a small overhang (crux) and finishing with some fun but sketchy moves to the anchors. I felt strong at the start, but baffled by some of the sequence up higher, at and past the overhang - took a few hangs to work it out; G made the finish look a lot smoother. The second 10 (black) starts in the same area but goes straight up the arch and exits right to the face and then the anchors; overhanging but juggy holds the whole way, more pumpy but less delicate. Totally pumped by then end, and had to hang a few times; G raced up the climb, hanging once right below the anchors. Should be getting to the point soon where we can send these kinds of climbs in one go.
Good night of work, long trip getting home through the Manhattan maze. A little MJ closed out the night...
6 comments:
Cool climbing.
You made the first 2/3rd of that orange look much better than I did K.
Brian was climbing just as well as if he had never stopped. He just lacked a bit of endurance.
The conversation, wow, you can feel Joana is back in NYC (even though she was not there).
Yah, fun climbing, though still getting the endurance back. Getting better technique wise, conserving energy and shaking out, etc.
It amazes me how good Brian's technique remains, despite a layoff.
Good times! Just need some endurance back!
Guillaume, remind me to tell you what I watched in Canadian TV last week. Ok, Brazilians may be "liberal" and "open-minded" etc, but Canadians, man, I was shocked!
Wait, I probably wont be there tonight! You have to email me this.
Don't leave us out if it has any potential to explain how strange Guillaume is.
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