Last trip to PG tonight, Jess, Muriel, Erica, and Greg came along. I lost track of what was done, except the highlights for Jess and I. Jess did a 10d onsight and an 11a with 1 take. I onsighted a great 10c on lead that was moving diagonally through an arch and a prow like feature, lots of fun. I also did a long 11a clean on lead. I will definitely miss this gym.
I went climbing the last 3 days but was too busy (lazy) to post. Today at PG with Jess, yesterday at Mission Cliffs with Jess, Muriel, and Greg, and the day before at PG with that same group. I lost track of everything that has been done.
Jess seems to think I suffer from OCD because I keep doing the same climbs over and over when I fail on them, but today was payback. I finally finished the 11c on lead that I had kept trying 3 to 4 times every session.
I did need to take once. I also onsighted an 10a on lead, and did an 10d clean on lead. I finished the session with a great 11b on lead. I took about 3 times. It was scary and thin off the ground and then became overhanging with big pieces higher up, a great climb.
Jess, Muriel, Greg and I headed to PG tonight. I lost track of Muriel and Greg, but I do know that Greg finished this hard 10b he had tried a few times before and Muriel onsighted her first 10b (way to go Mu).
As for Jess and I we did the following:
JS: 5.9, 5.10c (takes), 5.10b (F), 5.10d (takes), 5.10c.
GF: 5.10b (lead), 5.10c (lead), 5.11c (lead F), 5.11b (lead F), 5.11c (lead 2xF).
The last 10c Jess did was an onsight, so obviously the title of the post only applies to me. The 11c I tried were the same climb, so I tried and failed 3 times on it. The last time however I figured out all the moves and I fell 2 or 3 moves from the end, none of which seemed hard, so I think that climb is within reach. I took a few impressive falls today, luckily none of which resulted in injuries.
Clayton and I went to the Stanford gym. We did the following:
- 25 minutes running
- 40 plank walk-ups
- 15 box jumps
- 20 burpees
Then I went to PG with Jess in the evening. We did the following:
JS: 5.9, 5.10a (lead, 1 take), 5.10d (multiple takes), 5.10c (2 takes), 5.10d (multiple takes).
GF: 5.10a (lead), 5.10c (lead), 5.11b (lead), 5.12b (lead - F), 5.12a (1 take).
Jess worked hard to finish all of her climb. I did my first 11b onsight lead, but I think the rating is not right, it felt closer to an 11a. It is also relatively short, which certainly makes it easier even though it doesn't affect the grade. The 12b was out of my league. I almost lost a finger when I fell on the third clip just as I was clipping and my finger just slipped between the rope and the biner. I unfortunately fell on the last move of the 12a that I did on TR.
Last climb before thanksgiving, Muriel, Erica, Jess, Greg, and I went to PG: great session. Here's what we did:
MN: 5.8, 5.9, 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10a
EF: 5.8, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10a
GL: 5.8, 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10a
JS: 5.8, 5.9 (lead), 5.10a (lead), 5.10b, 5.11a
GF: 5.10a (lead), 5.10c (lead), 5.11d (lead - F), 5.11b (TR - 1 take), 5.11a (lead)
Erica onsighted all climbs!
Jess' leading is getting much better, and she onsighted the 10b TR.
Muriel did well despite thinking she wouldn't be able to climb.
Greg did well, as usual.
I am ecstatic, having done my first 11a onsight lead (a long overhanging route). I also didn't do so bad on the 11d, falling at the crux (a humongous roof).
Happy thanksgiving everyone.
Went to the Stanford gym for a run. Did 30 min on the treadmill. Then went to PG with Jess. Lead 5.10a, 5.10c, 5.11b (2F). The 11 b was nice, and I almost did it on the 2nd try, falling 2 moves short. I tried to get back on but could never pull that move.
Good session at PG yesterday with Jess, Greg and Muriel. Jess worked on two leads 9 and 10a, and 4 TR: 10b, 10b, 11a. One of the 10bs looked very interesting involving a lot of high feet and smearing.
I did a 9, 10c, 11a on lead. I had to take once on the 11a, a long slightly overhanging route. Then I did a great 12a on TR twice, once with 2 takes, and the second time clean. That route is great, very unusual movements involving friction and open hands and requiring good weight transfers. I finished the night with a 10c lead on a overhanging wall. Felt good to finish with a clean lead.
The shoes fit well, they are great for overhanging stuff (with a big heel and downward toe) but not as good as the Muiras for edging and slab climbing.
Jess was back from LA and we went to PG tonight. She warmed up on a 5.8. We the both did a long overhanging 5.9+ on lead. After that I did a 5.10c on lead. She did another climb (I forget what). Then I finally did the 11d stem fest I had been working on clean (on TR). What a great climb. Jess did her first 11b (with a few takes on TR). I tried a 10d on lead but fell once on it. We added 1 TR each and that was it for tonight.
I, on the other hand, seem to have regressed. My tendinitis is back, and I am struggling leading 10s. I did the following on lead: 10b, 10c (2 takes), 10b. Then I did two 11c on TR. The 10b I did were both super overhanging which was nice for a change.
Today Jess and I took the lead test at PG on an easy 5.8 (you can pick the climb). Everything went fine: no back-clip, no z-clip, no skipped clip, clip between the knees and the shoulders everywhere but the first and last clip, take a fall with the clip at your knees past the fourth clip.
Jess then lead 5.9, 5.10a (multiple takes), 5.10a (F). I lead 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.11a (F), and I TR a 5.12a (F).
The 10a Jess did was a monster of a route, probably one of the longest in the gym. She had to take a few rest but managed to do it. The next one was very hard for her and she had to abandon about 2/3 of the way. Part of the difficulty is that many leads are overhanging, which is exactly what she struggles with.
The first 10a I did was scary (fall risk). The 10b gave me a hard time towards the end, and I had to downclimb to a rest multiple times before I could finish it. The 11a was long with a big roof where I couldn't find a way to clip.
I had forgotten just how much harder leading is.
Tomorrow night I am taking the red-eye to NYC and I will have 4 days without climbing, which I think should do me good as I really had no energy tonight.
First I went to the Stanford gym with Muriel for about 1 hour. Muriel worked on V0s and a traverse, followed by a 5.8. I first did a V1, V1+, and a V3+ (all including down climbing). Then I worked on a V6 (I can now do all the moves, but haven't managed to link them). I followed that with a V7 which is probably out of my league, but I can do parts of it.
After that I had a quick dinner and then left for PG to meet Jess. We wanted to take the lead test but unfortunately nobody could give it tonight. I lost track of exactly what we did but Jess climbed strong working on a few 10b, 10c, 10d, and 11a after her warm-up of 9 and 10a. I warmed up on a 10a, and then worked on a 11b, 11a, and gave three tries to my new 12a (pink) obsession. A 60 feet monster which I have tried about 7 or 8 times now. Tonight I added one move to my best performance, taking me from within 2 moves of a clean finish. Unfortunately, I did worst on both subsequent attempts.
Today I first went to the Stanford wall for a bit of bouldering. I tried warming up by doing easier problems and down climbing them, I did a two V1s, one V2, one V3+, then I tried a V4 I had tried many times before and still couldn't pull the last move. After that I worked on two V6s. The first I can do all the moves except the last, it seems to me like that move might be the 6, the rest felt like 4, but I still haven't figured out how to even go for it: left, right, cross, bump... I then worked on another V6 which first moves down and low then back up in a section where there is somewhat of an overhang around your waits, so that you feet are awkwardly placed. I think I figured out how one could do it, but I am just not strong enough.
After that I walked home, grabbed the car and headed to PG to meet Jess. On my way there I picked up my new BD Boa duffel ordered at the REI outlet that I had delivered at the local REI. Looks like a nice bag (given the price I paid), although compression straps would have been a nice addition.
At PG we did the following.
JS: 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10c (1 take), 5.10a, 5.10d (2 takes), 5.10d (multiple takes)
GF: 5.10c, 5.11c (1 take), 5.11b, 5.11c, 5.11c (1 take), 5.11c (1 take)
Jess is clearly improving, the last climb she did she had tried many weeks ago and failed. She still struggled at that same point, but after I working it she finally past through it and did the rest without a fall.
As for myself the plan tonight was not to try any 12s (which are still a bit above level). The 11c that I did clean was very strenuous, just long sustained with pinches, big and small, the fact that an employee was looking at me certainly motivated me not to fall...
Up to now we have managed to almost always climb new stuff, but I think we have pretty much exhausted everything within our reach. Tomorrow, we'll try to pass the leading test.
Jess, Muriel and I went to PG today. It was Muriel's first time so she had to pass the belay test, which she did. Here's what we did:
JS: 5.9, 5.10b (2 takes), 5.10a, 5.10b (2 takes), 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10d (2 takes).
MN: 5.5, 5.6, 5.7, 5.8, 5.8 (1 take), 5.9 (F), 5.8.
GF: 5.10a, 5.11c, 5.12a (2 takes), 5.12c (F), 5.12a, 5.12a (1 take), 5.12a (multiple takes).
We all did something good today. Jess onsighted a 10b and came very close on the 10d (I think it will go next time). Muriel did her first long (60 feet) 5.8. I did my first 12 clean at PG, it was one I had tried once previously.
The 12c I tried I got to about 1/2 of the way, it looks very interesting, I'll try it again next time.
Jess and I headed to PG and I must admit that for some reason I thought I would do well tonight: not. Nothing worked out. We did the following:
JS: 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10c (multiple takes), 5.10c (2 takes), 5.10c (multiple takes)
GF: 5.11a, 5.11b (1 take), 5.12b (multiple takes), 5.12a (1 take), 5.11d (multiple takes)
The first 12 made me look retarded and really tired me out. The 11b and 12a felt like I should have done clean. The last climb (11d) was a slab which I thought would be good but I was miserable, it was really a pain.
Jess is clearly improving but for some reason she struggled a bit tonight. She could really do all the moves but would sometime get stumped and needed to start fresh to do it.
I can't tell if I am climbing soft because you guys aren't around and I am getting worse or if all this climbing is translating into improvements, but today at some points I felt like I was on the edge of getting better. Its hard to tell because the changes are so small. Irrespective of whether I am getting better or worse, today had a lot of nice climbing with newbies.
First, Muriel, Erica, Clayton, and I headed to the Stanford gym. The three of them were doing very well for one of their first time climbing in years. Clayton had the upper hand sending one V0+, one V0, and working on the start of a third V0+ (that one imposes the hand sequence, which makes it trickier). Erica and Muriel both sent a V0(+) and reached close to the end on the other. They followed this by a 5.7, Erica doing all but the last move, Muriel managed about half way. I did a V2, V3, and two V4s. There's a third V4 that eluded me (I couldn't stick the last move). All the problems were new, which was quite nice. Erica went to run and the rest of us headed back to the department.
I then grabbed a quick dinner and headed to Planet Granite to meet Jess and her sister Nicole (on the way there I barely avoided rear ending someone who was stopped in an exit). Nicole did 5.6 (F), 5.4, 5.5., 5.6. She was very flexible which made all the routes look easy and with a bit more confidence she would do well. Jess did a 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10b, and 5.10c (multiple takes). The 10a was a great sent for her because it was overhanging and long, two things that give her a hard time. BTW Jess started a leading class yesterday and thus I will soon have a leading partner her in CA. I did 5.11a, 5.11b (1 take), 5.12a (1 take), 5.11d (1 take), and 5.11d. It felt like I could have done all of them clean, but obviously I didn't manage. The 12 was great, involving a huge throw to a big brain over an arch, which meant you feet were hanging. The first 11d involve many difficult move with pinches. The second 11d was a crimpfest, it felt more like TRC then most routes at PG. Next time I hope to send a 12 clean.
