Yasso 800

First time doing intervals in a long while. Tried Yasso 800 at a goal time of 3:30 for 1/2 mile. These were longer then what I used to do at medium pace, but went at my fast pace; on the other hand I did fewer reps than I was doing last time I did intervals. My time were:

Split 1: 3:33
Split 2: 3:31
Split 3: 3:30
Split 4: 3:28

My cadence at that speed is around 200.

I went bouldering yesterday at BKB. Took it easy: V0, V1, V2, V3, V4, V5, V4. Also did a few attempts at a 6. Felt good.

Back to vertical

Went bouldering with Jess, Emilie, and Gregg last night. Took it solwly: V0, V2, V2+, V3, V3+, V4, and two unrated problems that are leftover from a comp it seems that I would rate in the V4 area (BKB grading). I worked another problem that I could barely start, so I don't know about the grade.

Felt OK, although my right index finger is still in pain, so I try to tape it straight which limits my climbing.

Did my 27 burpees while there.

About running: read this post which I thought had some useful stuff http://www.artofmanliness.com/2012/01/09/beginners-guide-to-long-distance-running/ I'll try to incorporate the Yasso 800's in my schedule.

Cinematic

Holy cow, E was on fire tonight!

With G out of town, it was up to E to wave the Frechette banner at BKB and boy did she do the job right. Since it was a movie-themed night - with Sesame Street filming on the street outside the gym and a film crew following Ashima around inside - I'm going to sum up our night as films.

E's night was the climbing equivalent of Aliens: a little warmup to start but soon enough nonstop action, with a lone female slaying monsters left and right. Out to prove that her recent V4 wasn't a fluke, she sent three V3s (including last week's super reachy yellow up front), came close to a fourth, and worked another stemmy V4 in the back corner. Seriously good effort, smart climbing, and job well done.

My night was more like The Abyss: long slow buildup leading to a prolonged fall by the protagonist into the dark depths and certain doom, only to be uplifted at the end for a quick redemption (SPOILER ALERT: no aliens though). Warmed up on V0, V1, V4 then spent the rest of the evening working the moves on a V6+ in the back (crimpy crossover moves to a big balancey move up to the arête, then feet high to move left to a pinch before the top). Struggled for a long time on the move to the big pocket on the arête, losing the left hand and getting pulled off by swing. Eventually took a hint from Will and rotated my left hand the slightest bit, which provided just enough lateral pull. Finally got the dynamic high step hop above on the last try of the night. Whew!

Warmed up with an easy stroll to BKB: ~4.5 miles in 70 min or so. Wanted to put in a good solid base of relatively easy climbs today:

1xV1, 1xV2, 8xV3

Didn't work a route more than once or twice so I could keep a steady pace - V3 is probably a tad hard to be steady-state level right now. Pretty burned out by the end, but felt like solid effort.

Two Stars

There were two stars at BKB tonight.

First, E did her first V3. Congrats. After only a few weeks of climbing, not bad at all.

Second, the amazing Sasha DiGiulian showed up. Although I thought I recognized her, the absence of pink threw me off a little. Maybe its NYC getting to her because she was all in black.

E and I did V0, V1, V2, V2+ in the front. Marco joined us at some point after working out in the back on his own and did V0, V1, V2.

E then worked a long time on a V3 which she finally sent. After that she worked another V3 where she could make it almost all the way (2 moves from the top) but could not finish.

I then did V3, V4, V4, V4, V5, V4. The last V4 was fun with a huge dyno to start.

Marco worked on a V3 then went back to the beast I believe.

P.S. On Sunday K, E, S, and I went to TRC to climb some ropes. It was fun to change it a little. Lead climbing there is definitely more fun.

7 x 2 = 14

Went down to BKB with K and E where we met Marco, Will, and Luca. K and I took it slow (K has problems with his shoulder) but E was on fire. After a V0 and a V1, she sent seven V2s. Some onsight, some she worked at. At this point, if she would be more precise, have her body more stable, and not pull with her biceps as much, she would get to V3 really quick.

Marco worked some old nemesis, including a pink V2 in the back. He made clear progress on it (he used to fall on the first move); now he gets to the end but can't pull the last move. Actually, I think he can do it, but his brain is getting in the way. Its a move where your body is angled to the left (your right foot is to the right of your hands and you need to swing your weight on that foot and grab the top which is to the right of your foot. Because your hand hold is not very good, it means that for about 1 foot its the momentum that's moving you, but your hand is not really holding anymore. He just needs to learn to let go.

Kenway and I worked some fun problems, including a green V4 in the back with a horrible 2 finger pocket on which you almost had your entire weight. In the front we did a fun orange V4 with big holds and big moves. We also worked a nice aqua V5 that involve a very slow and delicate high step with both hands on a thin crimper.

K and E: The Yardbirds! Not The Kinks.

Recap

Too busy to post here's a recap of what's happened since I returned from sunny Florida.

BKB: Kenway and I have been getting on ropes more, typically at the beginning of the session, then bouldering at the end. We need to practice more on ropes. as we have no endurance.

E has decided to try and come regularly. She was there on Friday and yesterday. She is climbing better than about a year and a half ago when she stopped.

Yesterday K, Marco, E, and I went. I thought everyone was climbing well. Marco and E both did a difficult V1 that they worked on for a long time. E sent her first V2 since starting to come again. Marco was showing clear signs of improved technique. Kenway and I did a fun V5 in the alcove. Kenway played with the zebra V4 on the beast that I tried when I came last Friday. I did a fun V4 that was all friction but it took me forever to do the first move for which I am not flexible enough. Everyone did a lot more than that, but that's what I remember.

Second pitch of Limelight

Gunks: Went on Sunday with K. Super cold and windy, worst than a few weeks ago (http://www.themonkeyclub.org/2013/03/march-madness.html). We setup on Limelight, I had forgotten that I had done it before. I lead the first pitch (5.6) and felt sketched out and uncomfortable. Then Kenway lead the second pitch (5.7) which I thought was hard to even second. Looking back and realizing I had lead both pitches surprises me (http://www.themonkeyclub.org/2009/09/climbers-log.html), I guess I am in much worst shape than I used to be. It was so cold we then decided to do short single pitches. I setup to lead CC Route but backed down before the traverse under the roof. Kenway went for it and slipped past the roof and fell on an old piton. Doing so he grabbed the rope and burnt his hand, but nothing that couldn't be solved with tape. I went back and finished the thing. We then TRed BB Route. Really fun climb.

Under the roof of BB Route

A bit depressing to see I am regressing. Its also clear that after all these years of climbing height still gets to me, I don't really trust the pro, and I am afraid of falling. This leads me to overgrip and get mentally exhausted. i guess the upside is that we have climbed more this year and in the past 2 years at that same point in time: practice makes perfect!

Coles: Did a few exercises this morning, really quick session. Trying to get back in a rhythm.

15 inclined situps (+30 - dumbbell on chest).
Bench presses 5x5: 135, 140, 145, 150, 155(F).
15 inclined situps (+25).
Standing straight, raise arm straight all the way to shoulder level, palms facing out, 5x5 (weight per dumbbell): 20, 25, 20, 15, 15.
15 inclined situps (+15).

Good Monday night session at BKB, working both lead climbs and bouldering. Still a little beat from the weekend at the Gunks, but felt like we put in good work.

lead: 5.9, 5.10, 5.11(f)
boulder: V1, V2, V3, V4, V5(f)

The 11 went up and under a small roof to the top of the arch, the moves felt there but our endurance is still lacking - could go with more juice. The lead head is slowly coming back, which helps. Bouldering felt good afterwards, being already warmed up. G knocked off the V5, which involved a move from two vertical pinches to a high horizontal sloper pinch, followed by a subsequent identical higher hold.

Getting ready for rock season

Kenway, Jess and I headed to BKB for a third time this week (a first in a long time). K and I lead the first four, and J top roped. We did 9, 10a, 10a/b, 10d (F). Then we went in the back and all got on TR. We did 12 (F), and 10d slab.

The first 9 was a poor choice for leading (bad position for clips and close to ground fall potential). The 10d was also strange, but the lime 10d was fun, under the arch, good sections of horizontal climbing, great holds, just nice. The 12 was super hard, very sloppy. the white 10d slab was kind of fun with two big mantels and hand to foot match.

This weekend we might head to the Gunks. Sweet.

Roping up

Since ice season is undeniably winding down - snow outside my window notwithstanding - it's time to get ready for rock season. G and I agreed to start incorporating more TR/lead climbing into our biweekly sessions. Started tonight at a quiet BKB:

lead: 5.8, 5.8, 5.9
boulder: V4(f), V6, V3

Gotta admit, even the 8s and 9s felt like work. The routes at BKB are short and generally have non-ideal clipping stances, but nice to get the practice in.

Hey ho, lets go

Jess and I went to BKB last night. Met Emily, lawyer Will, and some other of their friends. Worked on the new problems in the front. Went something like V1, V2, V3+, V3, V4, V5, V4, V5. Worked some stuff I couldn't do. Felt tired quickly, my tendons started to hurt, and so jess and I headed for a beer and poutine.

This morning I made my way to Coles for a quick session.

Warmup: 14 court lengths doing various things (jogging, lunges, etc).


15 inclined situps (+10 - dumbbell on chest).
Bench presses 5x5: 135, 145, 155, 145, 135.
15 inclined situps (+10).
Standing straight, raise arm straight all the way to shoulder level, palms facing out, 5x5: 30, 40, 50, 40, 40.
15 inclined situps (+10).
Towel pullups (both strands together) - goal 5x5: 5, 5, 2F
15 inclined situps (+10).

This or that

While Ragan and Marco were taking their intro to rope climbing class; Carmen and I started bouldering in the front.

Carmen was on fire, onsighting 3 V0s on only her second time climbing: nice! I started with V0 and V2, and then we moved to the small cave area where they setup a bunch of brand new problems. I did a V3, V4, and a great black V5: no feet, two big hooks in sequence, one on the same piece as your hand.

Once Marco and Ragan finished their class, we did a bit of rope climbing. Marco did a 5.9 clean on the pillar, not bad for his first time. After a failed first attempt, I did a 5.10 on the pillar (some guy did it on lead after I failed and his beta was key). Carmen did three attempts on a 5.7.

We then went back to bouldering, M, R, and C working an interesting pink V1 (Marco managed to do it). I did a crimpy V5 yellow.

We finished with some board training. I think the training is finally showing its effects. My climbing is improving, but it might also be because bringing M, R, and C is motivating me. They are improving so much (Both R and M managed to climb a few pieces without feet during training: i.e. pullups) that its making me want to get better I think.

P.S. Some guy fell on lead on a vertical climb, flipped over after his leg got caught in the rope and came banging into the wall... he had a pretty nasty burn on his leg: ouch.

Slow Start, Strong End

Brought another newbie to BKB, Carmen who is visiting Columbia from Munich. Met Ragan and Marco. Started in the section we spent most of our time in last Tuesday (the section with the small cave near the front) because Marco wanted his revenge on the green V2. Carmen completed a 0 and worked on second one. Marco tried hard on the 2, but it would not surrender. Ragan climbed some 0s and tried some 1s. I did 0, 2, 3, 4; then I had a long stretch of failures. Finally I was successful on a orange 4+ right outside of the cave area where the wall starts getting taller. It mostly involved large pinches.

We moved to the back where Marco and Ragan worked a white 1 and a red 2 (they had also worked on those on Tuesday). Carmen did two more 0s. I did nothing for a while but finally found something to work on, on the little wall before the beast, a lime 5, that involves a one arm mantle at the last move. Really cool (to do without the arete). I also did a red 4 in that section that involved a bid mantle on the last move with a dropped knee, really cool.

To finish Carmen did a 0+, and Ragan and Marco broke the code of the white 1: success!

We finished with some board training. Good night, but we have some work to do to be as good as those guys: 2013 ABS Mens Highlights

Fast start, slow end

Headed to BKB with Ryan, met Marco and Ragan there. We started strong in the small alcove towards the front where there is an overhanging section. I did V0, V2, V3, V4, V5+. The 2 was a fun overhanging (green) climb going across the little cave with good hands and feet. The 3, 4, and 5+ were hard, each in different ways. The (orange) 3 has a difficult finish going left to right on a small foot which is a bit far to really rock your weight over. The 4 involves mostly small hands. The 5+ is the yellow I tried last week, after a few fails trying to use the last hand hold before the top, I decided to just gun for the end. It worked on the second try, its more a mental thing than a physical challenge.

Ryan got stuck on the tricky 3 and spent a long time working it. Ragan and Marco worked some 0s and 1s; except for that green 2 that Marco spent a fair amount of time on. By the end he clearly had made progress, but was running out of juice. Ragan is learning to swing sideways and twist her shoulders; however she showed us she probably has the most hand strength of any of us on a sideways start with a flagged foot: impressive.

We then went in the back where these guys worked the 2 red that involves laybacks. I tried many things but couldn't come close on any of them.

We finished with some deadhangs and pullup training.

Another crowded night at BKB with G and visitors Ragan and Marco, who arrived with spankin' new shoes and chalk bags - looks like we have new converts!

V0, V1, V2, V3
V4(f), V5(f), V5, V6(f)

G thought it was a rough night but I felt like we put good work in. Worked some tough problems, the 4 had nice laid out traverse moves to start with a devious and weird left hand sidepull and accompanying high right side mantle/foot combo to an undercling finish. The 5 was super crimpy to start, I passed after a few tries but G was *this* close to sending.

Finished with some hangboard/pullup ladder work, and capped it off with the classic diet-Guinness + poutine + burger combo at Sheep Station.

Weekly trip to BKB with G and Jess, with newcomers Ragan and Marco along for the night. They're doing well for starting out (doesn't hurt that they're super fit); given that their first real time climbing was out on the ice I think they'll be fine.

Felt reasonable, but both G and I flailed on V5s tonight, partly because we chose devious problems. G worked all the moves on the last V5 on the steepest wall but will have to wait to link 'em up - lots of laid out traversing.

V1, V2, V3, V4
2xV5(f)

Finished with 3 rounds of hangboard work.

"Cold is fine, but not wet" KL

Good session tonight, although a bit erratic: some problems seemed impossible, others went down pretty well.

We started in the steep room: V1+, V2, V3. Then we worked a V4 unsuccessfully. After that a crimpy V5. And we finished with a V6 we could not do, but it was very interesting: crimpy first move, then hook, long extension, swing feet, hard cross, a couple more moves, and then a power move to a handle...

We finished in the back. V4, V3, V2+V1, finished with a crimpy and explosive V5 up an arete.

K and I also did some burpees in between. I did 60, taking my total for the day to 80. I think K did about 50.

Slow night

K and I took it slow yesterday. We both were sick last week. We did 1, 2, 2, 3 in the steep room. Then we tried three 4s and a 3 in the front. The problems we did were actually all quite interesting, but our performances left to be desired...

We bumped into 2 Quebecois yesterday. Funny coincidence.

K has joined me in the burpee experiment, we are now on day three, and I have 90 in the bank. My body is slightly sore from it, indicating in how poor a shape I am.

G and I were both pretty beat, lack of sleep in common, when we hit BKB with Ryan. G was definitely climbing better than me, climbing a few additional V3s and making short work of a crimpy, slightly overhung V5 at the end.

V1, V3(f), V3, V4(f), V4, V5(f)

Just felt a little run down, crimp strength a little weak. I also need to work on my heel hooking strength, it's a real problem when a move requires pulling up and over.

Just a little bit of suck

G having returned from his month long sojourn in the mountains, we went to BKB to do a little bouldering. He was nowhere near as rusty as he thought he might be - at least to me - and clearly outclimbed me in the V5 range.

V0, V1, V2, V3, V4
3xV5(f)

Didn't finish any of the 5s we worked, though I think I could have with a little more patience. G ripped one off right away and was close to a second. The grading was definitely variable, as one of the ones was much harder than the others.

Not too bad, but could be better.