Done

Burpee challenge completed (yesterday).

5050 burpees.

Kenway made the most amazing return, being hundreds in deficit, but he made it. Well done.

Two Stars

There were two stars at BKB tonight.

First, E did her first V3. Congrats. After only a few weeks of climbing, not bad at all.

Second, the amazing Sasha DiGiulian showed up. Although I thought I recognized her, the absence of pink threw me off a little. Maybe its NYC getting to her because she was all in black.

E and I did V0, V1, V2, V2+ in the front. Marco joined us at some point after working out in the back on his own and did V0, V1, V2.

E then worked a long time on a V3 which she finally sent. After that she worked another V3 where she could make it almost all the way (2 moves from the top) but could not finish.

I then did V3, V4, V4, V4, V5, V4. The last V4 was fun with a huge dyno to start.

Marco worked on a V3 then went back to the beast I believe.

P.S. On Sunday K, E, S, and I went to TRC to climb some ropes. It was fun to change it a little. Lead climbing there is definitely more fun.

7 x 2 = 14

Went down to BKB with K and E where we met Marco, Will, and Luca. K and I took it slow (K has problems with his shoulder) but E was on fire. After a V0 and a V1, she sent seven V2s. Some onsight, some she worked at. At this point, if she would be more precise, have her body more stable, and not pull with her biceps as much, she would get to V3 really quick.

Marco worked some old nemesis, including a pink V2 in the back. He made clear progress on it (he used to fall on the first move); now he gets to the end but can't pull the last move. Actually, I think he can do it, but his brain is getting in the way. Its a move where your body is angled to the left (your right foot is to the right of your hands and you need to swing your weight on that foot and grab the top which is to the right of your foot. Because your hand hold is not very good, it means that for about 1 foot its the momentum that's moving you, but your hand is not really holding anymore. He just needs to learn to let go.

Kenway and I worked some fun problems, including a green V4 in the back with a horrible 2 finger pocket on which you almost had your entire weight. In the front we did a fun orange V4 with big holds and big moves. We also worked a nice aqua V5 that involve a very slow and delicate high step with both hands on a thin crimper.

K and E: The Yardbirds! Not The Kinks.

Recap

Too busy to post here's a recap of what's happened since I returned from sunny Florida.

BKB: Kenway and I have been getting on ropes more, typically at the beginning of the session, then bouldering at the end. We need to practice more on ropes. as we have no endurance.

E has decided to try and come regularly. She was there on Friday and yesterday. She is climbing better than about a year and a half ago when she stopped.

Yesterday K, Marco, E, and I went. I thought everyone was climbing well. Marco and E both did a difficult V1 that they worked on for a long time. E sent her first V2 since starting to come again. Marco was showing clear signs of improved technique. Kenway and I did a fun V5 in the alcove. Kenway played with the zebra V4 on the beast that I tried when I came last Friday. I did a fun V4 that was all friction but it took me forever to do the first move for which I am not flexible enough. Everyone did a lot more than that, but that's what I remember.

Second pitch of Limelight

Gunks: Went on Sunday with K. Super cold and windy, worst than a few weeks ago (http://www.themonkeyclub.org/2013/03/march-madness.html). We setup on Limelight, I had forgotten that I had done it before. I lead the first pitch (5.6) and felt sketched out and uncomfortable. Then Kenway lead the second pitch (5.7) which I thought was hard to even second. Looking back and realizing I had lead both pitches surprises me (http://www.themonkeyclub.org/2009/09/climbers-log.html), I guess I am in much worst shape than I used to be. It was so cold we then decided to do short single pitches. I setup to lead CC Route but backed down before the traverse under the roof. Kenway went for it and slipped past the roof and fell on an old piton. Doing so he grabbed the rope and burnt his hand, but nothing that couldn't be solved with tape. I went back and finished the thing. We then TRed BB Route. Really fun climb.

Under the roof of BB Route

A bit depressing to see I am regressing. Its also clear that after all these years of climbing height still gets to me, I don't really trust the pro, and I am afraid of falling. This leads me to overgrip and get mentally exhausted. i guess the upside is that we have climbed more this year and in the past 2 years at that same point in time: practice makes perfect!

Coles: Did a few exercises this morning, really quick session. Trying to get back in a rhythm.

15 inclined situps (+30 - dumbbell on chest).
Bench presses 5x5: 135, 140, 145, 150, 155(F).
15 inclined situps (+25).
Standing straight, raise arm straight all the way to shoulder level, palms facing out, 5x5 (weight per dumbbell): 20, 25, 20, 15, 15.
15 inclined situps (+15).

Where's my head?

Headed to BKB with E. Once we got there I realized I had forgotten our shoes (which I took out because we took the subway last time we climbed). I drove back into the city and then back again to BKB (which added 1 hour of travel time).

We worked in the front which has only new problems. E worked lots of V1s, some 0s, and some 2s. She really climbed well, paying attention to her feet and looking at others to get insights into what to do. So, although she did not climb harder problems then what she has done before, she still progressed.

I worked everything between 0s and 5s, but mostly 2, 3s, and 4s. It wasn't inspired climbing, but it was better than yesterday. I worked some more on a yellow 5 that's interesting.

P.S. K, I am really sorry, but I forgot to look for your stuff in the lost and found. Not sure what was up with my memory, but its not working great.

One big room full of bad bitches

Headed to BKB with E. Her second visit since she's back from spring break. She did some 0s, 1s, and 2s.

I was impressed by a two she did in the Beast section that ended way high. I did V0, V1, V2, V2, V3, V3, V4, V5, V4, V6, V6. Some of those are repeats and this does not include the dark green 4 on the Beast which I failed at. I fell off at the same spot as K on our last visit. One 6 was a repeat but the other was new for me. I had worked it a bit on our last visit (its in the back). We ended with 25 pushups, 30 situps, and 3 sets of dead hangs.

Watch out!

Watch out Ryan, there's a new newbie in town, and she's on a roll. Went to BKB with E, and after going yesterday with K, I thought I would take it easy, but that was not to be...

E was on fire, she did 4 V0s (including some +s), two V1s, including her first overhanging boulder, and 3 V2s, (she had only ever done one V2 in the past). She really was focussed, pushing the limit of her comfort zone, and doing difficult last moves relatively high.

Given how well she was doing, I couldn't sit idle. I did a V0, a V1, a V2, and then multiple V3s, V4s (about 3 and 4 respectively) and a couple of V5s. At the end my tendonitis was starting to make itself felt again.

We finished with 25 pushups, 30 sit-ups, and two sets of dead-hangs, 20 and 3 seconds respectively.

Two days in a row... might be too much

Headed to BKB with E to boulder. E showed off her progress by onsighting V0, V0, V1, V1, and coming close on 3 more V1s.

I did V0, V1, V2, V3, V4, V5, and then one or two more V4s and working a few more 5s. My tendonitis started flaring up again so we stopped early to grab two poutines.

Feudal

Back to TRC with E and G on a beautiful sunny spring day (Gunks on the horizon!). Evangeline kept up the strong work, climbing well on two overhanging routes (7 and 8) before moving on to a few 9s. For the old dudes, we took our time but found some interesting climbs:

lead: 5.9, 5.10, 5.11
TR: 5.12

The 9 was a nice warmup, vertical with a small overhang, not as bad as it looked. After being unable to suss out the start of a nearby 10, I went up a different route with small crimps, very sequencey - not my favorite style of climbing, but good to get the work in. The 11 went up the arch and out from under the roof, tiny holds down low and big moves to get up and over to the chains. We both took big falls, but props to G for powering to the end. I found the 12 to be really reach dependent, in a funky way, involving big lateral stretches, mantling, and opposition in a corner.

Reminder for us: have to do more endurance work, maybe run lead laps on 9s. Should also help with making the clipping movements more smooth.

Return to TRC

After 1 week off, Evangeline and I headed to TRC. She did a 5.7 with a mantel, a V0, a V1 (fail on last move), V1, 5.8 (slight overhang-corner), 5.8, 5.8 slab.

I did V2, V3, V4, V4, V4, V4 fail, V6 fail.

Pushups, E 15, G 25.
Situps, E 20, G 25.
Dead-hangs, 3 x 10 secs.

Good return, Evangeline worked hard.

TR: Tres Romantique

V-Day special: another early evening trip to TRC with G and Evangeline, who's really progressing well. She worked a bunch of climbs in the 5.7-5.9 range. She's particularly good at off vertical slab, getting her feet really high and staying in balance. Emphasizing the mantra of working one's deficiencies, she also tried some more overhanging stuff, with a focus on awareness about footwork.

G and I worked mostly TR today, but it felt like a strong work session:

TR: 5.10, 5.11, 5.11
lead: 5.11
TR: 5.12

Despite an inauspicious warmup (really pumpy and non-obvious overhanting 10, we both took a hang right before the anchors), both 11 TR routes went up relatively easily. The first was a short vertical problem in the back, small holds and crimps, balancey but with stems and decent rests. The second was the long vertical sequencey 11 that gave us fits last week, but with the right beta linking the moves together was straightforward.

The 11 lead was fun, burly, and ended kind of oddly: overhanging up underneath the big arch, big exit moves with a foot out R, then a slightly overhanging traverse left on mediocre holds and tiny feet before finally heading up to the anchors. Toughest part was the last clip at the end of the traverse. The 12 TR was good, thoughtful climbing; I couldn't stick the crux move (off balance R-hand throw off crimps and tiny foot jibs for a far, far crimp), but G sure did.

Nice climbing tonight, plan for next session: multiple leads of routes in our range (9-10).

Hooky

Left work early for a late afternoon/early evening trip to TRC with Evangeline and G. E tackled a bunch of progressively harder climbs on TR, I must say I was very impressed (5.6, 5.7, 5.8, 2x5.9). She's already excellent on slab, and with a little focus on footwork will be cranking the more vertical stuff.

In contrast, G and I were beat down pretty hard: 5.9, 5.10, 2x5.11(TR). The 9 was in a corner, lots of balancy positions and stemming that felt surprisingly insecure - certainly warmed me up. The 10 was a steep route going up under the arch, then exiting to a less steep overhanging wall to the anchor. We both took a single fall right after turning the roof, but the moves felt okay. Both 11 TRs were frustrating, the first because we didn't figure out at first to use the arete and the second because each move was very sequence-dependent (lots of high-steps to open grips).

TRC with E

Went to TRC early with Evangeline to try her new Evolvs. Beside showing off her Autobot t-shirt, she did a 5.6, 7 slab, 7, tried another 7 she couldn't finish, and an 8 she couldn't finish. She also tried two V0s. In between I did V2, V3, V4, V5, V4 and tried a few more I couldn't finish.

She still needs to get more comfortable moving her feet up and placing her body sideways, but overall it was a good start to what we'll try to make a weekly outing.

Double Chin

Today I finally went back to the Gunks (second time this summer... yes I know: pathetic). It was me, Evangeline, Sandrine, and a brand new 70m bi-weave. We found an empty and relatively easy lead for Evangeline to learn to belay a leader on, namely Double Chin: 5.5 **. No picnic and Bunny were taken. 5.5 was more than I first thought we would tackle, but as usual, on my way there, it started to seem like nothing. Ouch, was I in for a rude awakening. The climb is fun, but it involves 2 roofs, which you avoid by climbing the side corner. A typical Gunks rating. The second roof puts you in a very strange position, with you feet out left and your hands to the right. It's a very nice climb, harder than bunny, and definitely stiff at 5.5, but still lots of fun, and easy to protect. I only wish I had not picked that one to train Evangeline. She did great, however, and instinctively took just enough, and gave slack when needed. A great second in the making.

Sandrine gave the climb a few tries, but she really was not trying.

Evangeline gave it two tries, and got to about 7 feet from the anchors, but just couldn't pull the end. Brave effort though, with a few swinging falls.

One last time

Last trip to PG tonight, Jess, Muriel, Erica, and Greg came along. I lost track of what was done, except the highlights for Jess and I. Jess did a 10d onsight and an 11a with 1 take. I onsighted a great 10c on lead that was moving diagonally through an arch and a prow like feature, lots of fun. I also did a long 11a clean on lead. I will definitely miss this gym.

Time to give thanks

Last climb before thanksgiving, Muriel, Erica, Jess, Greg, and I went to PG: great session. Here's what we did:

MN: 5.8, 5.9, 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10a
EF: 5.8, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10a
GL: 5.8, 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10a
JS: 5.8, 5.9 (lead), 5.10a (lead), 5.10b, 5.11a
GF: 5.10a (lead), 5.10c (lead), 5.11d (lead - F), 5.11b (TR - 1 take), 5.11a (lead)

Erica onsighted all climbs!

Jess' leading is getting much better, and she onsighted the 10b TR.

Muriel did well despite thinking she wouldn't be able to climb.

Greg did well, as usual.

I am ecstatic, having done my first 11a onsight lead (a long overhanging route). I also didn't do so bad on the 11d, falling at the crux (a humongous roof).

Happy thanksgiving everyone.

Four in row

Four days of climbing in a row, but I was always too lazy to post about them. They were all short sessions, 1 to 1.5 hours. Today and yesterday Erica, Muriel and I went to PG. The girls are improving rapidly. Today they both did their first 10a, a nice long slab. I have worked on a great 11d stem-fest which is long, overhanging, and really challenging. Today I took only twice, I hope to do better next time. I also worked a 12c that's out of my league, but I can now get about half way.

On the edge

I can't tell if I am climbing soft because you guys aren't around and I am getting worse or if all this climbing is translating into improvements, but today at some points I felt like I was on the edge of getting better. Its hard to tell because the changes are so small. Irrespective of whether I am getting better or worse, today had a lot of nice climbing with newbies.

First, Muriel, Erica, Clayton, and I headed to the Stanford gym. The three of them were doing very well for one of their first time climbing in years. Clayton had the upper hand sending one V0+, one V0, and working on the start of a third V0+ (that one imposes the hand sequence, which makes it trickier). Erica and Muriel both sent a V0(+) and reached close to the end on the other. They followed this by a 5.7, Erica doing all but the last move, Muriel managed about half way. I did a V2, V3, and two V4s. There's a third V4 that eluded me (I couldn't stick the last move). All the problems were new, which was quite nice. Erica went to run and the rest of us headed back to the department.

I then grabbed a quick dinner and headed to Planet Granite to meet Jess and her sister Nicole (on the way there I barely avoided rear ending someone who was stopped in an exit). Nicole did 5.6 (F), 5.4, 5.5., 5.6. She was very flexible which made all the routes look easy and with a bit more confidence she would do well. Jess did a 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10b, and 5.10c (multiple takes). The 10a was a great sent for her because it was overhanging and long, two things that give her a hard time. BTW Jess started a leading class yesterday and thus I will soon have a leading partner her in CA. I did 5.11a, 5.11b (1 take), 5.12a (1 take), 5.11d (1 take), and 5.11d. It felt like I could have done all of them clean, but obviously I didn't manage. The 12 was great, involving a huge throw to a big brain over an arch, which meant you feet were hanging. The first 11d involve many difficult move with pinches. The second 11d was a crimpfest, it felt more like TRC then most routes at PG. Next time I hope to send a 12 clean.

The Weight of the Atmosphere

Packed the van with Evangeline, Joana, Brian, and Kenway to go to the NJRG. Brian had a hard time keeping the discussion within the PG rating and Joana had a hard time keeping the music selection within the PG rating, but we managed to get there in good time and had quite a few laughs. Miss Pssst joined us there, and it was hard bouldering from then on.

Gravity seemed to be cranked particularly high for me, as I kept on falling on every problem I tried, but everyone else seemed to have regular to light gravity going. After a few warm up problems, we quickly went on to attack V4s and above problems and sustained this until the end 4 hours later.

A few highlights were: the yellow problem with black squiggles going up the arete that Joana liked. The V5 (purple or blue) problem that took Miss Pssst one try and took me a million tries. The super crimpy problem that Miss Pssst almost finished. Then in the room above there was Brian's purple V5 madness that involve pinching the top of this giant hold. Kenway, Miss Pssst and I really liked the the V8 beige problem that none of us could finish but that she almost did. And there was the V0 for Evangeline that finished under the roof. There was also the elephants crack, but I'll let Brian describe that one in the comments...

Joana and Kenway also did a bit of TR but I didn't see any of it.

2 days later I am still tired...

New Jersey rocks

To shake things up a little, we spent the afternoon bouldering at NJRG, meeting up with Ms. Pssst in the wilds of New Jersey.

More to follow...