Friday, April 12, 2013

7 x 2 = 14

Went down to BKB with K and E where we met Marco, Will, and Luca. K and I took it slow (K has problems with his shoulder) but E was on fire. After a V0 and a V1, she sent seven V2s. Some onsight, some she worked at. At this point, if she would be more precise, have her body more stable, and not pull with her biceps as much, she would get to V3 really quick.

Marco worked some old nemesis, including a pink V2 in the back. He made clear progress on it (he used to fall on the first move); now he gets to the end but can't pull the last move. Actually, I think he can do it, but his brain is getting in the way. Its a move where your body is angled to the left (your right foot is to the right of your hands and you need to swing your weight on that foot and grab the top which is to the right of your foot. Because your hand hold is not very good, it means that for about 1 foot its the momentum that's moving you, but your hand is not really holding anymore. He just needs to learn to let go.

Kenway and I worked some fun problems, including a green V4 in the back with a horrible 2 finger pocket on which you almost had your entire weight. In the front we did a fun orange V4 with big holds and big moves. We also worked a nice aqua V5 that involve a very slow and delicate high step with both hands on a thin crimper.


K and E: The Yardbirds! Not The Kinks.

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