Gerdies (and another one)

Brad, Amalea, Phil and I headed for the Gunks on Saturday. We expected it to be packed and hot: thus the plan was to hit the Nears. Once we arrived around 8, the parking lot was fairly empty and so we changed plans and headed for the Trapps. We wanted to find climb that I could lead, leave the gear, and have Amalea and Brad lead with the gear in place.

We setup on No Picnic (we were using the Swain guidebook which rates it a 4+). The lead went well (except for the yellow cam I almost lost because I overcammed it), I took my time on the way down to double or change any questionable piece to make sure things were safe for the other leaders. Amalea went second and might have been too comfortable with my pro because she did not stop once to look at it... but she sure made it look easy. Phil went next on TR getting his height jitters out of the way. Brad led it and cleaned it.

Next we did Herdie Gerdie (our guidebook had it at 6+). I led it, I must say I felt some of the pro was small and marginal (I used multiple C3s, including the 000 and one ballnut). At some point (about halfway) I wondered too far right, but I came back on track. The crux was particularly difficult because the feet (friction only) were super greasy. Again, Amalea led it on my pro, then Phil went on TR, and Bradley led it last. Still seemed easy for Amalea and Bradley, but they did not stop much to study the gear placements.

Leaving the anchors in, we TRed the next two. First Dirty Gerdie (rated 8 or 8+ - can't remember - in the guidebook). That is a very interesting climb, involving a balancy mantel about 15 feet off the deck with nothing to grab with your hands until you are completely up (except if you are Amalea, in which case there's a tiny feature you can crimp... nasty I tell you). We all had fun on this one, but Amalea would need to come back later to do it clean.

Finally, we attacked Nurdie Gerdie (5.10+, the new Grey Dick has it 11-). Amalea gave it the first go, fingering out the tricky beta and displaying great footwork. There are at least 3 difficult move, but the 10+ one involves a one finger dish less than half a inch deep (right hand) from which you get your body up (hips in close to the wall) and then explode with the left hand to a ledge. She could not link it on the first go. I went second and had to take one. One of the moves is almost a dyno for me (with very bad feet), which I found quite enjoyable. Bradley tried it but quit when he realized his bad finger tendons might not survive the finger move. Phil went next and did the variation that uses the arete (rated a 9). He really pushed himself hard on this. Quite an impressive send for someone who'e going outside only for the second time. Bradley went back to it, using the arete only at the finger move, I would say that make it a 9+. I was then capable of sending it clean, which really felt great. Amalea did one more time, and then went back to do Dirty Gerdie clean and she cleaned the anchors (something she had never done before).

I am a bit surprised that I had lead Dirty Gerdie a few years ago (see http://www.themonkeyclub.org/2009/04/let-it-snow-let-it-snow-let-it-snow.html), but I can see why I wrote that I was sketched...

Really a great day, very few people (I guess they were scared of the heat). We followed it by delicious marinated pork chops on the grill and some great local beers.