Badger!
Good session at BKB tonight with Jess and Guillaume. Warmed up quickly on V1/V2/V2+/V3 and then proceeded to work V4-V6 the rest of the night. Jess was climbing well, and sent a 4 in the front on the tall, slightly overhanging wall (crimpy, big moves and a lot of moving your feet up). We worked several different V4s with decent success. Attempted a few tries at G's new project V6, traverses right to left on sucky big slopers, downclimbing before you head back up. Really long reach near the start, with both hands on a sloping ledge and your body leaning the wrong way - doesn't look like it gets much better after that.
For reasons largely incomprehensible to me, I avoided the flash pump that usually hits an hour in. Left me a decent amount of strength to work the harder problems, which felt great. Finished up the night on an overhanging V5 in the back. Involved small crimps and careful footwork to start, a big left throw to a large pinch around an arete, moving your feet high and your right hand to a large sloping pinch, and the crux move: big throw up right to a tiny crimp. Every time I wanted to rest, G kept pushing me to hit it again, which may have been the magic key; we had the sequence sussed out, just needed that little bit of boulder-badgering...
1 comment:
Oh crap, I shouldn't have mentioned that story.
The 5 was fun. I think we might have not been pumped because we mostly worked in the front.
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