Sunday, February 27, 2011

No plastic ice? Then lets climb plastic.

Kenway and I headed toward TRC for the first time in a long while.

We warmed up on TR with a very nice, bur far from trivial 5.9.

We then roped up for a lead, a long slightly overhanging 5.9. The gym was packed with parents and their kids, and it seems like all eyes were on K. Right before the end there he needed to rotate above a slight roof and he peeled for a good long fall (partly because I jumped up). I looked around and he definitely impressed the crowds. I roped up and although I finished it, I really got pumped doing it.

We then roped up on a 10 in the section with the 2 successive roofs. It was a tough lead with a long sideways last move which Kenway managed to static, but I did dynamically. We both needed to take a few times.

The next one was a long 11 under the arch with a difficult change of body position under the arch which required you to cut the feet. The start was difficult as well, involving tough clips and crimpy holds. I thought this was a really interesting climb, and its the climb I would like to work on more than once if we went more often.

To finish, we led a long juggy 9 we had done a few months ago when we last came.

It was nice to be back.

3 comments:

kenny g said...

You were really climbing strong, G. Good effort this session, liked the way we worked the routes even through the tough bits.

The roof route is ridiculous, would like to get back on it (without pulling my shoulder from its socket, hopefully).

Strength and climbing technique is ok for me, the endurance is still not there...

g said...

Yes, strength and technique are OK, but endurance is missing. In my case there was also some nervousness past the clips.

kenny g said...

Imagine you're ice climbing over screws, then look down and eyeball the bolt, and let the warm fuzzy feeling wash over you as you send...