Climber's Log
September 06 2009
- Limelight, 5.7, lead both pitches, onsight.
- Retribution, 5.10, lead, not clean, about 4 takes.
- Nosedive, 5.10, TR, onsight.
- Sonja, 5.10, TR, 3 attempts.
JK was second on Limelight. She TR Retribution. She was working on Nosedive when I left.
My head was not in it when I got started and I was very hesitant on the first pitch of Limelight. I guess that's normal given that I have only climbed once in August. The second pitch felt better, but I was still feeling a bit out of it.
Limelight is a great climb, amazing views, fun, non-trivial moves.
Both Retribution and Nosedive are great climbs. Nosedive must be a scary lead, the moves are there, but barely, and it always feels as if you are about to peel off.
JK climbs better every time I see her. She worked the crux on Retribution for a while and was about to quit when she figured it out.
Great day, perfect temperature. Nice company also with JK's firends.
4 comments:
Nice job G! Limelight has always seemed like it would be a fun climb. Good to see you got on Retribution - how were the moves versus the protection?
Awesome! Hope someone got some pics!
JK took some pics, but I am not sure any of them involved climbing...
Retribution was OK in terms of pro vs moves given that Dave had told me to use the yellow C3 in a specific pocket right before the crux move. I did struggle throughout with finding the right protection but that was more due to my inexperience than the climb itself. You follow a crack all the way up, but most of it is to thin to put your fingers in, and it is often flaring. The tough thing is that the few places where you can put your fingers in are the place where you want to put pro in (such as right before the crux). I used quite a few nuts on that climb, ballnuts might have been nice to have. I used some small C4s and a couple of C3s. BTW, the finishing move to the anchors I did as a mantel, my last piece was a small nut down and to the left! I also used a micronut on that route .
I think both you and Brian would love Limelight. Arrow also seemed like fun (which Dave was on).
it was loads of fun. Guillaume did a great job leading Limelight and Retribution.
On Nosedive I struggled through the climb, but after unclipping the directional I fell on the last move, which was a layback and high step to this nicer jug. With the pendulum, I ended up on the other side of the face and was too lazy and tired to get back on it.
I also attempted Sonja, got maybe a third through it before realizing I was way to tired to do anything.
Will sort out through the pics. Was great!
Post a Comment