Monday, July 6, 2009

Represent

Tonight I was a club of 1 at MHPC. Although I did meet a bunch of Coles climber and their friends. Angel also showed up as I was leaving.

I warmed up on 1, 2s, and 3s. After that I did three V4s successfully, although they all required a bit of work. I followed it by a V5, which although I couldn't finish, I got very close. I tried it at least 10 times, making infinitesimal progress each time, but on my last try, I touched the final hold. The last move seems to be one of the hardest. The problem is on a vertical wall and involves a tough crimp that goes to a moon crescent sloper (the moon is set mostly vertically and thus it is rather difficult to grab) before the last move. The feet are small and high.

Over the years, I have been to MHPC about 5 times, and I always felt the problems were a bit sequency and beta intensive. The last two times however, they felt easier. I conclude that either the grades are getting softer, or their style is now more normal to me. This would make sense as they are in many ways similar to the Coles problems: vertical with crimps and slopers, and balancy.

3 comments:

kenny g said...

Or you're getting stronger!

g said...

I thought about that, but unfortunately I really don't think so. My technique is not improving (at least noticeably), I still don't use my brain enough and I do not position my body properly. As for my strength, I doubt it is improving as I no longer do any exercise in between my climbing sessions and my grip doesn't feel particularly strong.

This is also evident from my lack of progress on TR at TRC (i.e. I am still climbing the same grades).

In my opinion, one who is making huge improvements right now is JK. I think she's the one in our group who is improving the most right now.

brian said...

JKoll's crushing!