How to climb 5.10

Midweek foray up to TRC with Brian, Guillaume, and Eric. We got lots of climbing in under our new yoyo climbing strategy - returning to the ground every time you fall or take. Eric worked on a series of 5.8s to get his lead head back, and was looking quite steady. I worked up through an 8, a 9, and then spent multiple runs on a 10 (yellow) near the front desk - slightly overhanging, tricky moves at the start and then a steep turn over a lip to an even more overhanging finish. Kept getting spit off right at the turn, after the last bolt, but repeated it until I sussed out the last move (with my one mulligan hang of the night). B and G were likewise assaulting a 10 (black), the one with easy juggy vertical moves up to a roof, then big roof moves to a tricky horizontal direction reversal and a big reach around to turn the roof to the face above - nice one finishing that off G! Seems like they found a good 11 (orange) that they were occupied on for the remainder of the evening. Brian and I finished off with a few feeble attempts at the devious red 12 with the groundfall start.

Though we spent the bulk of our time on easier routes, I think the strategy is sound. We'll see what it means for our climbing ability and endurance in a few weeks...