Back to leading

Today Jess and I took the lead test at PG on an easy 5.8 (you can pick the climb). Everything went fine: no back-clip, no z-clip, no skipped clip, clip between the knees and the shoulders everywhere but the first and last clip, take a fall with the clip at your knees past the fourth clip.

Jess then lead 5.9, 5.10a (multiple takes), 5.10a (F). I lead 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.11a (F), and I TR a 5.12a (F).

The 10a Jess did was a monster of a route, probably one of the longest in the gym. She had to take a few rest but managed to do it. The next one was very hard for her and she had to abandon about 2/3 of the way. Part of the difficulty is that many leads are overhanging, which is exactly what she struggles with.

The first 10a I did was scary (fall risk). The 10b gave me a hard time towards the end, and I had to downclimb to a rest multiple times before I could finish it. The 11a was long with a big roof where I couldn't find a way to clip.

I had forgotten just how much harder leading is.