On the edge

I can't tell if I am climbing soft because you guys aren't around and I am getting worse or if all this climbing is translating into improvements, but today at some points I felt like I was on the edge of getting better. Its hard to tell because the changes are so small. Irrespective of whether I am getting better or worse, today had a lot of nice climbing with newbies.

First, Muriel, Erica, Clayton, and I headed to the Stanford gym. The three of them were doing very well for one of their first time climbing in years. Clayton had the upper hand sending one V0+, one V0, and working on the start of a third V0+ (that one imposes the hand sequence, which makes it trickier). Erica and Muriel both sent a V0(+) and reached close to the end on the other. They followed this by a 5.7, Erica doing all but the last move, Muriel managed about half way. I did a V2, V3, and two V4s. There's a third V4 that eluded me (I couldn't stick the last move). All the problems were new, which was quite nice. Erica went to run and the rest of us headed back to the department.

I then grabbed a quick dinner and headed to Planet Granite to meet Jess and her sister Nicole (on the way there I barely avoided rear ending someone who was stopped in an exit). Nicole did 5.6 (F), 5.4, 5.5., 5.6. She was very flexible which made all the routes look easy and with a bit more confidence she would do well. Jess did a 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10b, and 5.10c (multiple takes). The 10a was a great sent for her because it was overhanging and long, two things that give her a hard time. BTW Jess started a leading class yesterday and thus I will soon have a leading partner her in CA. I did 5.11a, 5.11b (1 take), 5.12a (1 take), 5.11d (1 take), and 5.11d. It felt like I could have done all of them clean, but obviously I didn't manage. The 12 was great, involving a huge throw to a big brain over an arch, which meant you feet were hanging. The first 11d involve many difficult move with pinches. The second 11d was a crimpfest, it felt more like TRC then most routes at PG. Next time I hope to send a 12 clean.