Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Recap

Too busy to post here's a recap of what's happened since I returned from sunny Florida.

BKB: Kenway and I have been getting on ropes more, typically at the beginning of the session, then bouldering at the end. We need to practice more on ropes. as we have no endurance.

E has decided to try and come regularly. She was there on Friday and yesterday. She is climbing better than about a year and a half ago when she stopped.

Yesterday K, Marco, E, and I went. I thought everyone was climbing well. Marco and E both did a difficult V1 that they worked on for a long time. E sent her first V2 since starting to come again. Marco was showing clear signs of improved technique. Kenway and I did a fun V5 in the alcove. Kenway played with the zebra V4 on the beast that I tried when I came last Friday. I did a fun V4 that was all friction but it took me forever to do the first move for which I am not flexible enough. Everyone did a lot more than that, but that's what I remember.

Second pitch of Limelight
Gunks: Went on Sunday with K. Super cold and windy, worst than a few weeks ago (http://www.themonkeyclub.org/2013/03/march-madness.html). We setup on Limelight, I had forgotten that I had done it before. I lead the first pitch (5.6) and felt sketched out and uncomfortable. Then Kenway lead the second pitch (5.7) which I thought was hard to even second. Looking back and realizing I had lead both pitches surprises me (http://www.themonkeyclub.org/2009/09/climbers-log.html), I guess I am in much worst shape than I used to be. It was so cold we then decided to do short single pitches. I setup to lead CC Route but backed down before the traverse under the roof. Kenway went for it and slipped past the roof and fell on an old piton. Doing so he grabbed the rope and burnt his hand, but nothing that couldn't be solved with tape. I went back and finished the thing. We then TRed BB Route. Really fun climb.

Under the roof of BB Route
A bit depressing to see I am regressing. Its also clear that after all these years of climbing height still gets to me, I don't really trust the pro, and I am afraid of falling. This leads me to overgrip and get mentally exhausted. i guess the upside is that we have climbed more this year and in the past 2 years at that same point in time: practice makes perfect!

Coles: Did a few exercises this morning, really quick session. Trying to get back in a rhythm.

15 inclined situps (+30 - dumbbell on chest).
Bench presses 5x5: 135, 140, 145, 150, 155(F).
15 inclined situps (+25).
Standing straight, raise arm straight all the way to shoulder level, palms facing out, 5x5 (weight per dumbbell): 20, 25, 20, 15, 15.
15 inclined situps (+15).

2 comments:

kenny g said...

Great day outside. G, I think you're shortchanging yourself a bit - I think you're climbing physically harder than ever, it's just a matter of getting your trad head back in gear.

I thought P1 of Limelight was heady given the runouts and the unclear routefinding. CC really is a sandbag at 7- and a tricky onsight given the odd gear options and the potential for a big swing back into the corner. Teamwork got it done though, and thanks for the catch!

I still think we should focus on 6s and 7s until we're comfortable enough with the climbing to face down runouts and looking for placements.

What would you say about a return to High E? Have you led the long first pitch before?

g said...

Never lead the first. Yes, more 6 and 7s. Here are some old tick lists we made:

http://www.themonkeyclub.org/2007/11/gunks-climbs.html
http://www.themonkeyclub.org/2009/03/first-trip-ticklist.html