Thursday, May 24, 2012

Earlyish session at BKB with G and E and the Webb brothers, who brought a gift from the wilds up north I had never heard of: HP sauce (apparently a Commonwealth staple). First time climbing for Ryan's brother, who acquitted himself well for a big dude. Definitely the most rocker guy in the gym, with the rings and bracelets he couldn't/wouldn't take off plus beard and mane.

E sent her first V3, which just required a little thinking about body position and balance at the top - all her moves were dialed at the bottom. G and I worked up to a really fun V6 in the back that starts out moving around a vertical corner with balance, extended leg counterweighting, and hand smears. Using the arete and more hand smears, eventually you work your feet up high and throw for a jug; the finish is steep and a large move or two (and heelhook) to the right. It helped that some guys who knew the beta were working it, but I'd like to think we would have eventually figured it out.

front: V1, V2, V3, V4(f), V4
the beast: V5(f), V6

Sometimes, you just have to make the big throw (hey E... YOLO).

4 comments:

g said...

I am not sure about the rating on that 6, it was a very unusual problem, and the fact that Ryan could get so far on it highlights how beta intensive it was.

The white 4 in the front was strange, but the blue was not bad.

kenny g said...

Yeah, the 6 on it has no real meaning, it was pretty different from the other 5s and 6s we try.

Fun though, feels kind of traddy until the throw.

e said...

YOLO indeed.

kenny g said...

Well, Miss E, I'm going to try the HP sauce tonight - I'll let you guys know if I (and more importantly, my boneless ribeye) survive...