Brooklyn lead

Finally got G his lead certification at BKB, followed it up with some TR work for Ryan and some good leading work for me and Guillaume. Ryan is making noticeable improvement in his climbing, mostly with body positioning and balance. I'm still not entirely comfortable with the way lead routes are set at BKB, but it's good practice to suss out nonobvious sequences and clipping.

On lead: 5.10, 5.9, 5.10
TR: 5.10

The first 10 was long and fun, though it took me a few hangs to figure it out. It starts out steep and up one wall through an overhang, follows under a roof, requires you to swing your feet and downclimb to reset vertically on a free-hanging pillar, then moves up to chains. Fun and juggy. The 9 was tricky, going up an overhanging corner with kinda odd moves (last move is dynamic to the anchors off a crappy R hand gaston in a finger pocket).

I led a 10 on the free-hanging pillar, which was a little weird at the start but thoughtful and fun climbing the rest of the way. G, on the other hand, picked an awful 10 to lead. Vertical up to a high roof, but with spaced out bolts - the kicker is a dyno up to the roof to get to the 3rd clip, with fall potential through the lead line. He was game enough to hit it the second time after just missing the latch the first time around. Ballsy effort, but I didn't like the looks of it at all (good call too, because I didn't even make the first bolt on TR).

If the weather holds, we'll hit the Gunks this weekend - maybe head over to Millbrook for a little adventure...