Oldies but goodies

We were rocking primo 70s tunes tonight on the way to TRC (The Clash on the way there, Blondie for the return), but the title applies equally well to the 30ish crew we wrangled together: G, David, and myself. Really nice to get back to some tall routes, especially on a rare quiet night in the gym, and give David his first exposure to the joy of lactic acid and endurance-crux moves.

Short but sweet night on the walls, we started with a 9+ TR up the front wall past a small overhang, balancey, a little delicate and thoughtful, before running a nice long 9 lead up the arch, traversing under the roof, and exiting on big holds up the last steep face. Clipping itself was a little fumbly, and I was pumped by the end, but no problems for G or me. David had a go at 7s and 8s, starting vertical in the front, to slightly slabby in the back, to pumpy and slightly overhung, to a corner route - a veritable smorgasborg.

Next up was an excellent 11 lead route around an arete, starting low with delicate moves and tricky clips on small holds, moving around right and straight up past an overhang to a pumpy, highstep finish. We both managed to reach the chains after a few takes (and falls - first lead fall of the season for me, small but good to get out of the way), moves are there but endurance still not up to snuff. Finished up with a 12 TR, which G was *this* close to onsighting. A sufferfest of a route if you ask me, replete with tiny crimps, ballbusting stems, smears, laybacks, awkward positioning, and a really painful looking mantle. G looked really great on it, stubbornly refusing to give up and take; I think he would have onsighted it if not for missing a hard to see hold around the arete. I never got past the bouldery moves down low.

The strength moves and technique are coming back, still lagging on endurance and grip strength. Looking forward to getting in some ice sometime soon...

When they kick out your front door
How you gonna come?
With your hands on your head
Or on the trigger of your gun?

- The Clash