Thursday, October 22, 2009

Raw tips

Met Joana and her pal Steve for some climbing at BKB. Started off bouldering in the cave, warming up on some more overhung V2s and V2+s. Moved over to the second room where Joana worked her purple V4. Nice progress to the last move. I made repeated attempts on a V4 (yellow) that starts with a nice hook, bump right to a crimp and bump again to a rail. The last move has you balancing off a tiny chip over an arete. Kept getting scared off by the finish by the bad fall. I did however manage a nice V5 with some friendly beta; up the arch with a bat hang/toe hook maneuver; very cool, but more like a 4. It was Steve's first time climbing, and he made it look easy, working through V0s and a couple of V1s. He's tall too, reminds me of Scott with all the hold-skipping.

We toproped for a bit, with Joana starting on her favorite column climb. She's attempted this thing at least 20 times and sent it twice, but she still gives a go every time. After berating me for being an "unsupportive" belayer, she had people gawking at her crazy scrunched toe-hook start. I tried the same climb, but not being quite as flexible, elected to campus the start. Nice climb. While Joana sent Steve up some routes, I climbed a nice V4 (purple) that had a balancy start to a shallow two-finger pocket followed by a high-step and two crimps with a swing around an arete. For our last climb, Joana and I hopped on a balancy 10+ with a series of small holds that followed an arete to a small roof. Crux involved a very reachy lunge for a rail, which I finally made, although I think the setter intended a ridiculous high step.

Finished up with some beer and nice poutine.

And cause Joana & I were talking about a New Yorker article on diving:

1 comment:

g said...

Nice, V4s, V5s, climbing strong!

And I'm jealous, beer and poutine after climbing sounds like heaven.

The dive is crazy. You should see the movie "Le Grand Bleu", the French cut if possible.