Horseman, Double clutch, and Ballnut #2

While Dr. Louie is instructing the next generation of neuroscientists; Jess, her cousin Greg, myself, and about half of New York city headed to the Gunks. The West Trapps parking was full so we stopped by the visitor center and parked in the parking lot right passed it.

Going up the stairmaster made me painfully aware of how out of shape I am. Once we reached the top it was clear getting on a free route would be hard. We made our way to Horseman which K and I had taken a look at when we last were there (http://www.themonkeyclub.org/2012/02/snow-days-pro-days.html). The party on it was almost done, and there was a party of two waiting. We decided to wait our turn. We weer surrounded by really good climbers (with lots of kids of all ages it seemed) climbing Apoplexy and the other climbs to the left and right of Horseman. I started getting nervous while waiting (especially with the crowds around), but I used my time to pay attention to how the leader before me went around and up the corner.

The start went fine, but going up in the corner I was too nervous and kept my body too much in the corner, making it more difficult than it needs to. Going around the corner was fine, but then I ran into the party coming down from the top. I had to wait a good 10 minutes for them to start down again. Luckily I had good feet and a good cam right at my foot. The rest went down well, the double ropes working well to get an acceptable amount of drag. I belayed Greg and Jess each on a separate rope. We walked down because we were one belay device short and I didn't feel like trying the double biner setup K had showed me last week without practicing it before.

We then went to Double Clutch which K and I had tried on our previous visit. I used my brand new Ballnut #2 as the first piece of pro, then a blue Cam, the piton, and a green cam before the crux (I tried a bigger one since last time we thought it might work better but it actually doesn't fit as well). Couldn't do it: yet again. Instead, I lead the start of the 6 just to the left of it and setup a TR. Jess followed the line I had used to clean it. Greg went back onto Double Clutch and did it first, getting over the crux with a heel hook far left. I did it next (clean), but with a slightly higher and closer hook. One thing that helped is that I really used my feet well before the crux not losing any energy. That climb was lots of fun, but just at my limit. Jess tried it but she got pumped from the traverse. Greg did it again with a modified start (from a boulder problem below). I went up again to clean t, but did not have enough juice to pull the crux and needed some help from the belayer.

All and all a great a beautiful day. It was the first time I felt like my head was back into it since the end of last year's ice season. Horseman actually felt better than the first time I climbed it as a second (http://www.themonkeyclub.org/2009/04/let-it-snow-let-it-snow-let-it-snow.html). Next time, to do Double Clutch, I think we should use a single rope and I would put only one piece before the piton to waste less energy.