Sunday, October 4, 2009

A lot of car and some climbing

Jess and I headed to south lake Tahoe this weekend. After coming back from Texas, I had only 4 hours of sleep before I left to pick Jess up. By 6am we had left her place, we drove for about 4 hours until we reached the campground close to Lover's leap. We setup camp and drove toward Luther Spires. It took us a while to find the place and when we found it, it was quite a hike to the base of the cliff, 25min of solid uphill hiking/scrambling. On our way we passed two climbers coming down who warned us it was VERY windy, but we decided to ignore their warning. Both of us were exhausted when we reached the base at 1:30. We had lunch in the sun before getting started on Jane Spy 5.7. The climb was truly great. Its a slab with nice handholds which although you cannot see them from below, are really incut and often allow you to put one or two phalanges in. Unfortunately the bolts are really spaced out, 4 bolts for 60 feet of climbing. Which mean that you could hit the deck past the first and you could hit a ledge past the third. The wind was blowing so hard it almost blew me off the wall right before the anchors. Jess did it on TR. I then did it on TR and placed 5 pieces of pro and cliped in all the quickdraws so that Jess could lead it (it then had a piece every 5 to 10 feet). She did a great lead (her first on American soil). I then went back on TR because there's one piece she couldn't take out.

After that we moved toward Dog and gri gri two bucks 5.9. Getting there was hard, at least 4 scrambling, maybe low 5, and I had to tie Jess in so that she could get there. In the usual craziness of my approach my helmet fell (but I managed to retrieve it later). The climb was a great 4 bolts (well protected this time) 30 feet slab following an arete most of the way, but the left foot which follows the face often has only tiny feet. By the time Jess did it, it was so cold, she had a hard time finishing.

We got back to the car by 6pm and headed to camp. We froze all evening and by the time we were in the tent it started raining, or so we thought. At midnight we looked outside and everything was covered in snow. By the morning, there were at least two inches of snow on the ground.

We headed back to San Fransisco since we couldn't climb in the snow and stopped at the Mission Cliffs gym. There we did the following.

Jess: 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10c (2 takes), 5.10b/c (2 takes).
G: 5.9, 5.10a, 5.11a, 5.11d (1 take), 5.12b (multiple takes).

The 12b was great, I managed the first 1/4 clean, but then it became really balancy and thin and I fell on almost every other move.

3 comments:

brian said...

Pretty weird weather for this time of year, but at least you got a couple of nice climbs in (although it seemed like a lot of effort to get there!).

g said...

Yes, the effort to climb ratio wasn't very good, but it was fun times nonetheless.

kenny g said...

Sounds like some dedicated climbers in the car to take an 8 hr roundtrip for two climbs. My kind of trip.

Do you know what I call a runout 60 ft slab climb with 4 bolts?

A trad climb. Seriously.