Sunday funday

Early climbing session with Brian in a practically empty gym in New Rochelle - all the regulars were out, likely outdoors given the weather, leaving just us, a few happily unencumbered staff, and a bunch of newbies learning the ropes. Still trying the yoyo method, Brian and I worked on an 8(x1), a 9(x1), a 10(x3), and 11(x3), and a 12(x0).

The 8 (black) was an excellent warm-up route in the doubled roof ("Gunks") area, with thoughtful moves on big holds up the arete and to the left of the roofs. The 9 (blue) was on the slightly overhanging wall opposite and consisted of small holds that were better than they looked provided you hit the proper body positions. The 10 (teal) went through the double roofs, and felt quite stiff for the grade: big dynamic move to pass the first roof, careful body position to get the clip above, a scrunched undercling under the second roof and a long undercling reach to clip the bolt above, then a hard crux move to pass the second roof onsisting of a small right hand crimp and a right foot out right on the face. B and I worked our full allotment of three climbs just to finish it; the moves above the crux are relatively easier once you're over your feet but felt quite desperate to me.

We then worked B an G's orange 11 for a long time. Really fun moves down low, with a series of clips leaning right on right hand clips, legs out left for balance. We worked our way to the fourth bolt, but B was the one to get the roof clip - nice work. We tried a few 12s in the front but kept getting spit off the difficult moves down low. Finished up quickly with a few bouldering problems (V3-4ish), then hit up Chickens Gone Wild for a little post-workout protein.