Finger lickin' good
Image from the alternate universe of SupertopoWent to New Rochelle with Brian, Joana, and Chloe on Sunday to fight it out with the birthday kids for time on the wall. Luckily, Joana is now a leader and Chloe is tackling some hard climbs so we got a lot of climbing in. Joana led a couple of 9's in fine style, getting more comfortable with good stances and controlled clipping. Chloe worked hard on a 10c (orange) that goes up and over a series of roofs.
Brian and I hit up in order a 9, 10, 11, and a 12, and together we tried an assortment of climbs. The highlight for me is still the yellow 11 with the all points dyno finish: very sequency and reachy climbing down low, an easier middle section, then the one-handed lunge for the finish. Start felt smooth and I felt pretty good setting up for the dyno, but slipped going up. Brian worked both the tricky purple 11 and the ugly crimpy orange 11, neither of which I would get on if you paid me. We both flailed on the 12 (green) that goes up and under the far side of the arch, crimpy start to a peanut-hold clip, tricky face climbing up to the roof, and then big undercling clipping stances until you can get up and out on the vertical face. Maybe next time...
Brian brought along some uptown goodness to share, a giant box of fried chicken. Tasty climbing fuel, and a very easy way to get jealous stares on the train ride home.

3 comments:
The image suggests you will also appreciate this:
http://chickenscreamer.com/index.php
Bottom of that yellow 11 is stiff!
Yeah, it's very height dependent - a few of the moves are juuuust at the end of my deadpoint reach.
G is the ice guy - he should appreciate the chickenscreamer.
I vote against the chicken screamers, they add weight!
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