March madness

Visited G in his cabin in the woods last weekend looking to get out and climb. Even after we woke in the morning and dumped our rock gear in the back of the truck, I wondered if we made the right call of rock vs. ice. It was still pretty cold out (temps around freezing) and there was plenty of snow on the ground. Things didn't look better at the West Trapps lot: we were the only car there at 7 AM, and the trail and carriage road were under plenty of snow.

Empty parking lot!

Snowy approach

A little ice left

Things looked up further down the road, the rock was relatively dry and the sun was coming up. We headed down to the V3/Middle Earth area and climbed through the snow to the bottom of Thin Slabs Direct (5.7+). The original start goes at 5.6 but is pretty unprotected (Rish) until a bolt 30 ft up; G jumped on the direct start, which is a little tougher climbing (5.7) but provided more pro at the outset. Good lead, especially for the start of the season, well protected low and appropriately runout higher up. Fun, technical slab climbing with relatively good feet and smallish handholds, with a steeper vertical finish to a tree belay at a ledge 100 ft up. I followed up, and found it cold enough that feeling my hands and feet made it tricky.

Start of Thin Slabs Direct (5.7)

A nice comfortable belay

Keeping cool

Alpine light?

Slushy

P2 is easier climbing (5.3?); I went off the ledge to the right, up to a large overhanging flake which you undercling to exit up and left to layback up to a ledge. With water running freely, it took me three cams before I worked up the nerve to commit to the layback and move up to the ankle-deep snow on the ledge. From there, an easy traverse left led to a straightforward left-facing corner to the next tree belay. In hindsight, you could probably lead straight up off the P1 belay, less protectable but probably uncomplicated face climbing to the final corner. With the wet and chilly weather, we skipped the money third pitch hand traverse, but it looks like a definite target for later this season.

But what does MP say about that third pitch?

Thin Slabs Direct P3 hand traverse pitch


Rapping down, we set up a TR to run the original start of Thin Slabs as well as the neighboring slab "sport" route Sente (5.9). Thin Slabs P1 was similar climbing but leading would involve some delicate unprotected climbing to the bolt. Sente was loads of fun, super delicate slab climbing with tiny hands and marginal-to-decent feet (I'm pretty sure G pulled off a no hands step up at one point). Leadable, there's a horizontal for initial pro before the first of three bolts which close out the relatively short climb.

Heading back, we finished up with a serviceable attempt to lead Red Cabbage (5.9-), on the right side of the Dirty Gerdie block. The route goes up a vertical fingers-to-thin hands crack, eventually heading around the arete to the left to easier face climbing up to the top. I overprotected going up, and wore myself out with poor crack technique (gotta remember to keep the toes in the crack). After G gave it a go, we threw down a rope from the top and finished it out on TR. At least on TR, you can exit up and right when the crack peters out before heading left, but it involves a dynamic throw to a small pebbly horn; the better option is probably heading left around the arete from a little lower. Pro beta: the crack eats pro, including a bomber large nut near the top; the tricky part is leaving enough room for your fingers. Doubles would be nice on this route, BTW. It will be good to jump on this again with a little more endurance in the tank.

Start of Red Cabbage (5.9-)


Great start to the season. As the weather warmed, plenty of groups arrived, mostly climbing near the Uberfall, but it was relatively uncrowded further down. Still working to dial down my racking system, but we did better about streamlining gear and the general process. More pics here.

Redeeming the prize

M and I headed up Saturday afternoon to Stone Ridge for a beautiful late summer weekend of quality time with G and Ariane, arriving just in time for some Canadian craft beers and late afternoon sunlight. Started the weekend off with excellent food at the Red Onion in Woodstock - I have the vague memory of multiple calamari dishes and some tasty steak, but mostly recall being stuffed to the gills.

Of course, the primary goal of the weekend was to get some climbing in, with the added responsibility of showing Nikita (and his wife) the beauty of the great outdoors. In a charity auction, Nikita had won the envious opportunity to climb outdoors under the tutelage of none other than G himself, and we wanted it to be worth his money (price unknown, but I'm sure it was worth it).

Nice leisurely start, relaxed enough for a breakfast of coffee and sandwiches from the deli (mmmm. Mountain Man) eaten at the swankest digs around - the bed of G's new old pickup. With Nikita meeting us later, we packed up and headed in to put up a rope on Herdie Gerdie (5.8). G having climbed it before, I took first lead of the day, though I admit thinking that it was a pretty stiff warm-up climb. The crux is low, situated between the ground and a big ledge 20-25ft off the ground, coming after a right leaning crack peters out. Having stuffed the crack with as many tiny nuts as it would take, negotiating the crux involved getting my feet high up on the greasy ramp and working up to the ledge, with a balancey mantle to surmount the lip. The rest of the climb was straightforward, with plenty of pro available.

The only casualty of the day


With a mind on the first day outside for Nikita and Liuba (and one that was prized!), I took my time and set up a careful, redundant anchor: good tree, girth-hitched rock, and solid cam, all (relatively) equalized. Was pretty proud of myself, until I came down to find that I had kicked down a rock that targeted my phone like a homing pigeon with ill intentions. In any case, G made quick work of the climb on TR and we soon had Nikita tied in and on the rock. Tough intro to the great outdoors, as the crux moves were delicate and crimpy, with crappy feet - determined, he eventually figured out the moves. From the same anchor (though we really should have put in a directional), we next TR'ed Dirty Gerdie (5.8+) immediately to the right. Super fun, with balancey moves and a technical mantle on crappy feet down low - not a lot of pro opportunities till halfway up, can't believe G led it in the past.

Nikita below the crux on Herdie Gerdie



Tricky mantle on Dirty Gerdie





To find something a little more enjoyable, we looked at Double Chin - which was taken - and settled on Boston (5.5). Though the moves are fun, the offwidth moves are not straightforward and the climb is difficult to protect without large gear (#5 or #6 BD), which we didn't have. G did an admirable job with the lead, though I was biting my nails the whole time belaying. He managed to fiddle in a decent amount of smaller pro outside the wide crack (including some ballnuts thrown up to him), but would definitely have benefited from some super small gear. Crux move is high off the deck, involving layback moves to get up and over a small roof near the top - excellent heady lead, toughest 5 I've been on for sure. Both Nikita and Liuba took multiple turns on TR - congrats to N for his first day outside, and L to her first day climbing ever, I think I see a future climbing for those two.

G wishing he were in Boston


Looking for small pro at the crux


First time climbing!




Wrapped up at the crag by 2, was back poolside with the ladies and mojitos by 3. Capped off the weekend with tasty burgers fresh off G's backyard grill. We need to do this again soon...

Why, yes, it's a very nice chair...

Some Canadian craftiness

Leaving the rocks wetter than you found them...

My two days climbing in Yangshuo were sweet. I will definitely be back... however, I would suggest not coming in July or August... maybe november! I was drenched in sweat before I hit the rock. The worst was my opening lead on day two where at the crux I had to swing out from inside a crack and up over an overhang. The clipping position for the bolt just at the top of the overhang was a huge sloper. The problem was that the only clip below was just above a ledge and the fall would have been bad. Having been off climbing for a few weeks, I was tentative and in the first two attempts to clip before going up and over the overhang I had completely covered the sloper in a mix of sweat and chalk that left it like grease. Yuck. Luckily it tried quickly in the sun, but it meant that you had to do things in one move or you might have to wait... at least if your not asian. Compared to the german and other american I was climbing with, they didn't seem to be nearly as bothered by the humidity.

Oh, and the location is spectacular—if suffering from the fate of most chinese tourist destination... :-( I'll post pictures soon. Day 1: Baby Frog (morning): Frogmarch, 5.8/4+ (top-rope, then lead) Liar, 5.9/5+ (lead) Frog's Traverse, 5.10c/6a+ (top-rope) Wine Bottle (afternoon): The Miracle of Lankou, 5.9/5 (top-rope, 26m) Summit No. 1, 5.9/5 (top-rope) Shu Ba Jie, 5.10a/5+ (top-rope) Day 2: Swiss cheese morning): Spam the Chinese Ham, 5.8/4+ (lead) Captain Kirk Eats Bruchetta, 5.10b/6a (top-rope) Da Xue Pao, 5.11d!/7a! (top-rope, failed between 1/2 and 2/3 up the climb)

This last climb I made some nice moves probably in the 11a section in the first third that had me feeling ok, given my lack of climbing and gym practice. I failed at the beginning of the crux, a bump to a small right-hand crimp while balanced on the right toe with a big move out to a nice pocket for the left hand. However, on top-rope there was a bit of a swing when I failed and after a couple of goes I gave up. After that move it was balance-y and required good footwork but I probably could have made it (according to the guy who opened it) if I wasn't pumped and three-weeks out of climbing.

Thanks Ashui, Seth, Soizic and Clemens for a great couple of days climbing... Get a sense for the climbing at: http://www.climber.me/2009/02/09/beginners-guide-to-rock-climbing-in-yangshuo-china-2/ http://www.yangers.com/Yangshuo_Rock_Climbing.php#goto3 http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/Asia/China/China_Proper__South_/Yangshuo/

Squamish with Chloe

Having to renew my visa was a pretty good excuse to go climb in Squamish with Chloe.

Saturday started out raining but we got lucky with the weather in the afternoon. We started out warming up with 1 pitch climbs in Shannon Falls. Chloe and Michael did a 5.7 crack and Will and I a 5.8. We then did a fun 5-pitch climb called Skywalker. The climb was pretty easy, the hardest part being a 5.8 up a weird crack corner. Arriving at the summit, there was a great view of the falls.

After the climb, we managed to shock the waitress with our order of 8 entrees for 4 people (3 of them belonging to Chloe).

On Sunday, we went to the famous Burgers & Fries crag for some slabby action, then straight to the airport to fly back to SF.

Rock and sea

Just returned from a week in Lisbon, (mostly) working. Took a little time off on Saturday after a week of lectures+labs to see a little of the outdoors, with a plan to pack some bouldering and surfing into a bright sunshine-filled afternoon.

Got a slow start, but by midday Joe, Henrique, and I had crammed the truck full of gear and roused Joe's friend Adam. 4 guys + 4 surfboards + bouldering pad + climbing gear + surfing gear (and no roof rack) pretty much packed the usable space full. We headed to the boulders surrounding Sintra, where Joe and I had climbed a bit last year. 4-wheel drive definitely helpful on the drive in, and the approach though short was uphill through boulders and painful plantlife (reminder to self: shoes not flipflops). Scoped out a bunch of problems, in the V0 to V1/V2 range. Not too high, but most of the landings are pretty sketchy - either with large boulders scattered about or a quickly dropping hillside underneath (or, often, both). Granite-like rock with sharp edges and often good incut jugs on ledges, we even found a short crack that went from offwidth to fist to hand jams - nice fist jam by JP to get up it.

After a few hours of sweating in the sun, we crammed back into the truck and headed for a quick 30 min drive to the beach. Decent size swells but pretty crappy conditions, lots of whitewater and breaks close to the beach made getting out tough. Flailed around for a while as I'm a terrible surfer, but got up a few times; just paddling out and riding the swells and smelling the salt were plenty good for me. Adam and Joe headed out further to hit the waves breaking further out, and I saw a few good short rides.

Closed it out with some ice cold beers and snails at a bar overlooking the beach. Nice way to close out the week. A few pics from the trip:

Finding Joe a board of his own

Setting up by the beach train tracks

Not a bad view

The human habitrail at the CCU

Steak... it's what's for dessert

The Darwin Cafe

Hillside near Sintra

Time for beer

Tejo appreciates the outdoors too