An interesting interview over at Peter Beal's blog with Bill Ramsey, who happens to balance an academic life as a philosophy professor with some serious climbing. Apparently, writing books and climbing 5.14s leads to a state of eudaimonia.
http://pull-ups.blogspot.com/
A team of local guys who specialize in bodyweight movements. Great videos on their website, and many of their blog posts are relevant for getting stronger in a way that transfers to climbing. Now, go find a playground with some bars!
http://www.dabtronics.blogspot.com/
A collective of of absolutely sick climbers (some I believe are NYC-based). Videos are awesome; this one inspired me to suggest Peter's Kill last summer (not that I had any chance on that particular problem).
There seems a lot of agreement among the best in the sport right now that this is an essential tool. They are using these consistently. Just bodyweight and ocassional weighted work too. Almost everyday...(?!) A ten minute workout is the minimum, the 'hardmen' are doing back to back sessions (20 minutes) to begin a day's climbing sometimes--and always as a final cap off. The far end of the scale may be Scotsman Dave MacLeod (who is at the pinnacle of professional hard trad & mixed climbing) who even uses the hang board to equivocate a day's climbing effort if the weather is too bad to get outside! My mind melts to even think of that...!
Read the rest here. Rob Shaul of Mountain Athlete has been posting interesting email exchanges on the workouts page of his site. Good reading.A climbing themed day with JKoll. Started by installing her new hangboard. It's an awesome piece of gear, but seeming as Joana has no studs, it's mounted in drywall only. This means that none of you guys is allowed to use it without cutting some weight! We proceeded to Rat Rock in Central Park (where Bon Jovi was puttin on a free concert), and met a nice guy named Ari who showed us a tough slabby problem with tiny holds on the north face. Worked on that and a nice traverse in addition to the same move I get stuck on in the Polish Traverse. Ended the day by walking down to MPHC to meet Kenway and his brother for some indoor climbing (the meetup was ultimately foiled by NYC traffic). You'd think we would have been exhausted after all of this, but Joana ended the day by running 40, that's right 40, laps on a 5.6! WTF?! (Oh yeah, brunch, sprinkler soaking, tree climbing, fence jumping, fence breaking and Pinkberry eating occurred at various times between the climbing.)
For future NYC bouldering trips:
www.climbnyc.com
upstatemanhattanboulderer.blogspot.com
scottsnelling.blogspot.com
Well, all I can really say is that climbing with a severe hangover, is, well, exactly how you would imagine it. Joe wisely bailed out (props for even waking up on time and calling me). I, however, figured that since I was already up, I might as well give it a go. The Louie Express swung by with Eric and Joana onboard, and we were off to New Rochelle, where Kristy and Tom showed up a bit later. Despite my best efforts to clean up, I quickly realized that I quite obviously smelled like a drunk whenever I climbed, and resigned myself to wandering around and laying on the bouldering mats. On a less disgusting note, we did manage to pipe some tunes in for a couple of hours (we were hijacked by Kenny Loggins in the end), and everyone else got some decent climbing in. Best that my poor pickled brain can recall: Kenway did the V4 on his first try, Kristy flashed Obe's yellow slab (10) in the back, Joana climbed another 10 slab in the back and got to the last move where I'm pretty sure she grunted "Elastigirl!" in an attempt to stretch the last few inches (no dice, superpower FAIL), I saw Tom making some new 11 look ridiculously easy, and Eric sent his favorite 11 again.
While Joe didn't climb, he apparently spent the afternoon thinking about climbing and sent me this link to an awesome blog that makes NYC seem like a bouldering mecca. Make sure to check out the discussion of ice climbing in Morningside park.
Street bouldering:
Links to some blogs with great (mostly Paleo) recipes:
Naomi's Paleo Kitchen
George Mounce's Paleo Recipe Corner
Nikki Young's Blog spot
Tracy Reifkind's Training blog (with posts about the food she's eating)
Robb Wolf's Intermittent fasting blog (occasional recipes)
Scott Kuste's Modern Forager
Marc's Feel Good Eating
Scott Hagnas' blog
Also worth checking out:
Paleofood.com
I realize this has little to do with working out, but I thought it interesting and cool: Carl Zimmer is a science writer in New York who blogs under The Loom. He recently blogged a post about scientists and science tattoos (Flickr set here) after noticing that his friend Bob, a postdoc in Richard Axel's lab at Columbia, was sporting a DNA tat:
It turns out that the strand represents his wife's initials (EEE) in genetic code. Technical details from Bob:
Bonus question:I knew someone in this crowd would ask about the 12 bases but three codons thing! So, 3 codons don't give you two turns (wanted to approximate real DNA dimensions), so I needed at least four codons, all of which in this case are E (the single letter code for glutamate). E translates into GAG or GAA (I went with GAG GAA GAG GAA for variety), and used the colors green for G and amber for A. The complementary bases were coded C=Cyan and T=Tomato Red (ok, a bit of a stretch). So, you can see from the left - following one strand - Green Amber Green Green Amber Amber, etc.
My wife's first name is Eliza, and is known affectionately as Li, so I'm thinking seriously of getting a second tattoo (the first was her engagement present to me in exchange for the ring) of a Bohr model of a lithium atom. Helps too that we have two kids (so 1 Li + 1 Theo + 1 Jasper = 3).
Tracy Fober has posted helpful information and video analysis of some subtle technical aspects of O-lifting:
Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing
Dave MacLeod's blog
Jebson and Steyers on Hand injuries in rock climbing
That's Dan Osman on the right doing a horizontal press while soloing. HT to John Black.
The Moynihan Institute is one of the strangest blogs I've ever come across. Check it out for some fitness humor, wierdness, history and perspective.
Just a warning that some of this material might be considered offensive and non-work appropriate. Probably not for the smart-board.
This spawned a trainwreck of a thread over at the Performance Menu. Not that anyone should sit and read this all at once, or read any of it for that matter ...
