Good week so far

Distance: 7.25
Pace: 7:53

This was yesterday, I did intervals (6x1200). I was happy and surprise to improve my PR on 10K by 10 seconds per mile.

Later K and I met Emilie and Ian at the Cliffs. We did: 5.9, 5.10c, 5.10a, 5.10?, 5.11b or c (can't remember), all on lead. We climbed slowly, but I felt good about what we did, especially the final 11 that was on the long wall. I guess we still can climb some. This weekend K and I are hoping to go to the Gunks for a short day.

Week 12

Tuesday
   - 12x400m
      Distance: 7.08
      Pace: 8:20

Wednesday
   - Climbing, TR
      5.8+, 5.9, 5.10, 5.11, 5.10, 5.10, 5.11 (F)




Thursday
   - Tempo
      Distance: 5.01
      Pace: 7:25
   - Yoga

Sunday
   - Long
      Distance: 15
      Pace: 8:13

Slowly getting closer to the big day. Not sure if I am feeling positive or negative about my progress. I find it weird and frustrating to plan for a distance I have never attempted.

I have not listed those, but every week I do exercises to reinforce my hip muscles, these are: prone hip extensions, straight leg raises, and side leg raises for the hip abductors (both the leg off the ground and the one on the ground. I do two sets of 15 each, both on Mondays and Fridays. At the end of those, I have started adding pushups and squats. This week I also included burpees. Last Friday was 2 x 15 puchups and squats + 15 burpees.

Week 10

Monday
   - Yoga

Tuesday
   - 8x800m
      Distance: 7.05
      Pace: 7:59

   - Climbing
      5.7, 5.9, 5.10, 5.11 (TR), 5.12 (TR - Fail)

Thursday
   - Tempo
      Distance: 6.39
      Pace: 8:04

Saturday
   - Long
      Distance: 18
      Pace: 8:31
      Elevation Gain: 1,010

Week 10 of my marathon training and first week getting back to some kind of normalcy where I can integrate yoga and climbing in the week. Yoga was very difficult, indicating its time t get back to it because I am very stiff. Climbing was better than I expected.

My long run today was the longest I ever ran. The program called for 15 miles, but since I only did 15 last week when I was supposed to do 18, I decided to do 18 today. It actually felt very good, probably because of the cool temperature.

Surviving

Distance: 6.75 mi
Avg Moving Pace: 8:42 min/mi

After a cold that knocked me out and some traveling, I am trying to get back to training (unfortunately my next half is very soon...). I went running with Tomasz who was visiting for a few days. We did not go fast, but I was still surprised I could survive that distance.

In the evening I went to the Cliffs. After warming up on an 8, I passed my lead certification. Then I did: 8 (the test) and three 10s. None of it was pretty (or clean), but its good to get back to leading.

New ideas?

Treadmill
Distance: 6.5 miles
Pace: 7:40 min/mi

My pace keeps on slowly improving, but even better, my ITBS seems almost gone. Very little pain today. Not sure if its going back to yoga, the strap I bought (which compresses above the knee), the new stretch I added to my routine, or the new exercises meant to strengthen: but something is working.

Yesterday was yoga and Monday was bouldering. Tackled stuff up to V6. Good evening overall. E came back and managed to do a V3.

Discovered these training videos by TNF: http://www.thenorthface.com/en_US/mountain-athletics/ Some of them look really good, I looked at some by Kit Deslauriers that seemed really intense. I think we should try some of them at some point.

Note: I can never seem to remember the settings on the treadmill, so let me note it here. Start at 7.5, then add 0.1 every mile.

And the training continues

Distance: 9 miles
Pace: 8:58 min/mi
Elevation gain: 571 feet

Very happy, I shaved 4 seconds/mile on my previous run at the same distance and on the same road (1 month ago). The spring must be here because for the first time in 10 months I crossed people who were running as well. My left foot has started to feel some numbness, so I decided its time to retire my old running shoes and buy a second pair of Saucony Ride 6. Lets hope that solves the problem.

IT band still hurts, but icing helps. I also bought a band I'll start wearing when it hurts, and I will try to add some strengthening exercises and stretching specifically aimed at the IT band (did a routine this morning that took about 7 minutes).

Went back to yoga last week after a few weeks off. It felt very hard, which tells me I need to keep going regularly. Let's try to stick to my weekly session.

Climbed ropes with Emilie last week. It had been a while. We did 9, 10, 10, 10, 11, and tried a 12. It was fun to get back on ropes.

Peterskill Pulling

Started the day with an easy 2 mile run at the Ashokan reservoir with G and Ariane. Certainly a pleasant environment for a run, and good compensation for a 6 am wakeup on a Sunday. Followed that with a good day of laid back TR climbing at Peterskill with Jess and Emile.

We headed for Dickie Barre, a newly developed area at Peterskill dedicated (mostly) to TR routes, with shiny new anchor bolts at the top of some of the routes. Not having a route map or even knowing the full extent of the area, we started the morning at the far left of the crag, where an easy walkaround allowed us to put down a rope at bolts over a short arete (I think MP has this area called the Bullwheel Faces). We climbed two routes in the 5.5-5.6 range there, starting either to the left or right of the arete, with both exiting on the right side at the top. Nice job by Jess and Emilie taking the plunge on those two routes, which were primarily face climbing between rounded horizontals.

First climbs of the day (Emily's Endeavor and Jess's Jaunt)

We next headed to climber's right, where G scouted out several good lines beneath an imposing roof (in area MP labels the Playground). Between G's bright orange static line, J+E's TR anchoring skills, and a sturdy oak tree (*far* back from the edge), we set up an anchor just to the right of the big roof and climbed three really fun routes. The first went up a small left-leaning crack/flake system, exiting up where the crack peters out to a small overhang which required - in my opinion - a rather sexy dropknee to surmount, with some additional tricky hold-seeking to get to the anchor. Even though I yarded on it on my way up, Emilie dislodged a toaster-sized flake from the crack that nearly brained G on the way down (and managed to scrape his ankle) - good reminder to not get complacent, especially in an area without significant prior traffic.

Three routes off one anchor (plus directionals)

The second route (I think it might be Fine Pine Line 5.7) was a vertical crack directly under the large roof, requiring a directional to the left of our anchor (two nice pieces at the top of the crack, near the roof). Without the directional, a fall mid-route leads to a swing into a large tree (AKA Vlad) at the base with numerous protruding broken branch stumps - not fun, as Jess can attest. Good climb, thin fingers but easily climbed without jamming and decent feet most of the way, reachy crux in the middle. Looks easily leadable, lots of pro - not sure of the exit move at the top (MP says exit left at the giant roof).

Last, G sussed out a route about 10 feet right of our anchor requiring a directional on the other side. Easy climbing up to the roof, but burly move to latch a big jug rail at the overhang - I thought it easiest to sidepull off a crimpy piece and layback to reach it statically, G much preferred to launch dynamically from lower. Also included a requisite heel hook on the rail to get higher and surmount the overhang. Maybe 5.8ish?

Haven't climbed at Peterskill in ages, it's a quiet area without quite the grandeur of the Trapps/Nears but also without the crowds. Given the single pitch lengths and easy toprope opportunities, it's a great place to go with larger parties. I would even go back to scout out some things to lead as well. Great day out (thanks to Emilie for the awesome peach handpies!).

The look of a happy man

Treading

10 min treadwall, vertical (setting 6)
4x [1m on, 1m off] treadwall, overhanging (setting 6)

3x5 bench press (5x45, 5x75, 3x95, 1x115 then 3x5x135)

Since I didn't make it to BKB this week, tried to get a little climbing movement in at Coles. Reasonable pump, might help the forearm endurance to do it a little more regularly. Stepped the bench weight down a bit for a sore wrist, but felt good at the weight.

Cinematic

Holy cow, E was on fire tonight!

With G out of town, it was up to E to wave the Frechette banner at BKB and boy did she do the job right. Since it was a movie-themed night - with Sesame Street filming on the street outside the gym and a film crew following Ashima around inside - I'm going to sum up our night as films.

E's night was the climbing equivalent of Aliens: a little warmup to start but soon enough nonstop action, with a lone female slaying monsters left and right. Out to prove that her recent V4 wasn't a fluke, she sent three V3s (including last week's super reachy yellow up front), came close to a fourth, and worked another stemmy V4 in the back corner. Seriously good effort, smart climbing, and job well done.

My night was more like The Abyss: long slow buildup leading to a prolonged fall by the protagonist into the dark depths and certain doom, only to be uplifted at the end for a quick redemption (SPOILER ALERT: no aliens though). Warmed up on V0, V1, V4 then spent the rest of the evening working the moves on a V6+ in the back (crimpy crossover moves to a big balancey move up to the arête, then feet high to move left to a pinch before the top). Struggled for a long time on the move to the big pocket on the arête, losing the left hand and getting pulled off by swing. Eventually took a hint from Will and rotated my left hand the slightest bit, which provided just enough lateral pull. Finally got the dynamic high step hop above on the last try of the night. Whew!

Warmed up with an easy stroll to BKB: ~4.5 miles in 70 min or so. Wanted to put in a good solid base of relatively easy climbs today:

1xV1, 1xV2, 8xV3

Didn't work a route more than once or twice so I could keep a steady pace - V3 is probably a tad hard to be steady-state level right now. Pretty burned out by the end, but felt like solid effort.

Stepping up

G and I are making a concerted effort to climb more this year, which sometimes entails pushing boundaries of comfort (and sanity) a bit. This weekend we targeted the Gunks, with a goal of working single pitch 8/9 routes.

First off, however, was a Saturday of construction, yardwork, shoveling, and tractor-riding, capped off with homemade pork-belly buns (inspired by a recent trip to David Chang's Ma Peche). G pulled out all the stops, with home-cured pork belly and handmade Chinese steamed buns. Tasty, fatty goodness...







We left relatively late on Sunday, heading out the door at 7 am, but found a surprisingly empty West Trapps lot and a deserted carriage road. Potential zombie apocalypse notwithstanding, we headed over to old foe Ants Line (5.9) and I racked up. We had given this a go once before, but staring up from the base the overhanging corner system looked a lot steeper than I recalled. The bottom felt allright and I sewed it up, but the moves - even with deliberate stemming - had me pumped out right before the crux, where I took a brief hang (right at my high point the last time I tried to lead it).

Starting moves to gain the steep corner

Well-protected but pumpy

At the crux, poor rope management and all


After a rest, I pushed through the awkward crux step left and up (great passive pro in a vertical slot immediately above took a sideways big wallnut), but hung again another 15 ft above. Sitting on a clearly poor nut (too large for the crack but all I had left), I took a ride when it popped - seriously putting a scare into G on belay and enough to convince me to swap the sharp end. After fixing some of more poorly-extended placements under roofs on the way up to my high point, G made quick work of the moves above, up and left to the anchor.

Our next project was Groovy (5.8+?)), a fun left-arching finger crack up a left-facing corner and under a smallish roof. The business is getting through the top of the corner and traversing leftwards to a nose, where easy climbing leads you up to a fixed anchor. G made quick work of the initial corner, and toughed it out through the moves up under the roof and over to the nose. Nice lead: opinions vary as to whether the crux goes at 8 or 9; I think proper stemming (and laybacking the traverse rather than jamming) makes it 8ish, but you can certainly make it feel harder if you sequence it differently. Given the rope drag over the edge of the roof, G belayed me up from the top to clean.

Left-arching finger crack of Groovy (5.8+)

G stems all the way up


We had the fortune of shooting the breeze with a couple of grizzled regulars as the finished the route before us. Aside from giving some good beta for the original Groovy, they pointed us towards a 10a version which we TRed next. Same initial corner, but goes out right at the roof, with a solid sidepull above to gain the face and thoughtful juggy climbing to the anchor. Not sure I'd lead it, gear supposedly exists to protect the crux moves to get above the roof, but I didn't see it. Fun route though.

Last for the day was Space Invaders (5.10d), which we TRed through a directional off the Groovy anchor. Easy initial moves up the Groovy corner and arete leads into a sustained pumpy and technical right-leaning finger crack. G styled it in one go, primarily laybacking and picking careful foot placements. The crux is probably getting over a bulge 2/3 the way up the crack, but it really doesn't let up until near the anchor ledge. I felt good down low, but couldn't get it clean - popped out of a tenuous finger jam right after the crux (so close!). Nice work on G's part.

Good solid work. Besides needing to get stronger, we need to get our lead heads dialed in. I feel like it's still much easier on the 6s and 7s to keep a steady head and remember to look for rests and shake out, climb steadily, and place thoughtful gear. For example, we both had rope management issues: I slung too short under both the initial and crux roofs on Ants Line, and G slung short on the Groovy traverse.

Route log:
Ants Line (9)
Groovy (8+)
Groovy variation (10a) - TR
Space Invaders (10d) - TR

Five alive

Evening session at BKB with the usual crew. Given the recent uptick in climbing, it feels like we're improving slowly but surely. G was killing it, ripping through V5 after V5. I wasn't quite up to the task, but felt relatively strong and sent a couple.

K: V1, V3+, V5, V5(f), V5, V5(f), V5(f)

Nice, focused session. Hopefully, more regimented grip training will help improve the climbing - we'll see...

March madness

Visited G in his cabin in the woods last weekend looking to get out and climb. Even after we woke in the morning and dumped our rock gear in the back of the truck, I wondered if we made the right call of rock vs. ice. It was still pretty cold out (temps around freezing) and there was plenty of snow on the ground. Things didn't look better at the West Trapps lot: we were the only car there at 7 AM, and the trail and carriage road were under plenty of snow.

Empty parking lot!

Snowy approach

A little ice left

Things looked up further down the road, the rock was relatively dry and the sun was coming up. We headed down to the V3/Middle Earth area and climbed through the snow to the bottom of Thin Slabs Direct (5.7+). The original start goes at 5.6 but is pretty unprotected (Rish) until a bolt 30 ft up; G jumped on the direct start, which is a little tougher climbing (5.7) but provided more pro at the outset. Good lead, especially for the start of the season, well protected low and appropriately runout higher up. Fun, technical slab climbing with relatively good feet and smallish handholds, with a steeper vertical finish to a tree belay at a ledge 100 ft up. I followed up, and found it cold enough that feeling my hands and feet made it tricky.

Start of Thin Slabs Direct (5.7)

A nice comfortable belay

Keeping cool

Alpine light?

Slushy

P2 is easier climbing (5.3?); I went off the ledge to the right, up to a large overhanging flake which you undercling to exit up and left to layback up to a ledge. With water running freely, it took me three cams before I worked up the nerve to commit to the layback and move up to the ankle-deep snow on the ledge. From there, an easy traverse left led to a straightforward left-facing corner to the next tree belay. In hindsight, you could probably lead straight up off the P1 belay, less protectable but probably uncomplicated face climbing to the final corner. With the wet and chilly weather, we skipped the money third pitch hand traverse, but it looks like a definite target for later this season.

But what does MP say about that third pitch?

Thin Slabs Direct P3 hand traverse pitch


Rapping down, we set up a TR to run the original start of Thin Slabs as well as the neighboring slab "sport" route Sente (5.9). Thin Slabs P1 was similar climbing but leading would involve some delicate unprotected climbing to the bolt. Sente was loads of fun, super delicate slab climbing with tiny hands and marginal-to-decent feet (I'm pretty sure G pulled off a no hands step up at one point). Leadable, there's a horizontal for initial pro before the first of three bolts which close out the relatively short climb.

Heading back, we finished up with a serviceable attempt to lead Red Cabbage (5.9-), on the right side of the Dirty Gerdie block. The route goes up a vertical fingers-to-thin hands crack, eventually heading around the arete to the left to easier face climbing up to the top. I overprotected going up, and wore myself out with poor crack technique (gotta remember to keep the toes in the crack). After G gave it a go, we threw down a rope from the top and finished it out on TR. At least on TR, you can exit up and right when the crack peters out before heading left, but it involves a dynamic throw to a small pebbly horn; the better option is probably heading left around the arete from a little lower. Pro beta: the crack eats pro, including a bomber large nut near the top; the tricky part is leaving enough room for your fingers. Doubles would be nice on this route, BTW. It will be good to jump on this again with a little more endurance in the tank.

Start of Red Cabbage (5.9-)


Great start to the season. As the weather warmed, plenty of groups arrived, mostly climbing near the Uberfall, but it was relatively uncrowded further down. Still working to dial down my racking system, but we did better about streamlining gear and the general process. More pics here.

Good Monday night session at BKB, working both lead climbs and bouldering. Still a little beat from the weekend at the Gunks, but felt like we put in good work.

lead: 5.9, 5.10, 5.11(f)
boulder: V1, V2, V3, V4, V5(f)

The 11 went up and under a small roof to the top of the arch, the moves felt there but our endurance is still lacking - could go with more juice. The lead head is slowly coming back, which helps. Bouldering felt good afterwards, being already warmed up. G knocked off the V5, which involved a move from two vertical pinches to a high horizontal sloper pinch, followed by a subsequent identical higher hold.

Roping up

Since ice season is undeniably winding down - snow outside my window notwithstanding - it's time to get ready for rock season. G and I agreed to start incorporating more TR/lead climbing into our biweekly sessions. Started tonight at a quiet BKB:

lead: 5.8, 5.8, 5.9
boulder: V4(f), V6, V3

Gotta admit, even the 8s and 9s felt like work. The routes at BKB are short and generally have non-ideal clipping stances, but nice to get the practice in.

Another crowded night at BKB with G and visitors Ragan and Marco, who arrived with spankin' new shoes and chalk bags - looks like we have new converts!

V0, V1, V2, V3
V4(f), V5(f), V5, V6(f)

G thought it was a rough night but I felt like we put good work in. Worked some tough problems, the 4 had nice laid out traverse moves to start with a devious and weird left hand sidepull and accompanying high right side mantle/foot combo to an undercling finish. The 5 was super crimpy to start, I passed after a few tries but G was *this* close to sending.

Finished with some hangboard/pullup ladder work, and capped it off with the classic diet-Guinness + poutine + burger combo at Sheep Station.

Learning all over again

G and I took a recent trip (2/3/13) to check out the ice in the Catskills, dragging along Ragan an Marco who were totally novice to climbing (great idea in the end, but I admit I had my doubts about G's sanity at first). Full writeup to come, but thought I'd get some pics up in the meantime; more to come:

Uva makes a gallant effort at the approach

Shaggy, maybe I should head back to the Mystery Van?

Heading up Ron's Gully (WI2+)

Melting runoff + 30F temps = instant ice

G's solid photog/encouragement anchor

Ragan sends the ice flying