"I love climbing girls"
The title phrase is a direct quote from Guillaume, tonight at TRC. Parse it as you will...
Just me and G, and we tried out a new strategy: intervals of 2-3 leads and 2-3 boulder problems. I think it's a good way to mix things up, especially if you have time for the switching and a little rest in between. Our docket:
- 9 (teal), 12a (pink/blue)
- V4, V3+ [get yer contact strength on...]
- 10 (yellow), 11 (pink), 11 (blue camo)
To address the issue of one person always hitting a new route first, G hit upon the idea of a little randomization - rock, paper, scissors for the first lead of each new route, with the person "winning" getting first crack. This, of course, means there's a distinct possibility of climbing twice in a row; that's how I ended up with the 9-12 doubleheader.Started out too hard tonight; the 12 before being fully warmed up set up a flash pump - for both of us - the effects of which lasted the entire evening. The 12 is a fun, burly climb, traversing up from right to left on an overhanging face - no feet to the left, lots of right heel hooks and leaning way out left to clip. Sussed out the bottom moves last time, but hit a wall at the last bolt; G looked good working the entire route. The rest of the evening we spent fighting the pump on whatever we climbed. I will note that the pink 11, up the front arete and through the pyramid blocks, is an ugly, uncomfortable climb. The blue camo 11 is the long one Brian and G worked the other day, up a vertical face, across under the roof and up through the arch apex, then trending up and right to the finish - excellent fun.
Note: like a tool, I brought the axes but the dry tooling routes are not officially sanctioned yet. Ms Psst seems to think it'll be a little while before they're good to go.
7 comments:
That quote was taken out of context!
But now I'll say it: I love climbing girls!
Someone finish that dark green V4?
Nah, we never made it to that one - tried a few other problems. Both involved big holds and contact strength galore. Fun, though.
We were pretty fried from the overzealous start of the evening (my bad).
Oh, my tools are stuck in the closet at home right now, but the dry tooling routes aren't available yet.
If you're dying for them, though, Eric has a spare key to the apartment...
Brain, you should try the V3+ we tried, it starts in the corner opposite to the entrance and involves the huge peanut hold. K did it, I couldn't, but its a nice problem.
I don't know what we did wrong but today I feel like a train ran over me.
That pink is really bad, let's never do it again.
Agreed on the pink (11?). It's an ugly, hateful route.
I feel well roughed up today too. Even given the fact we timed our climbs poorly, I think we worked pretty hard (if not smart). I thought you did excellent on the 12, BTW.
The V3+ is a blast, short but sweet. And with a giant peanut.
Can't go wrong with a peanut!
On the 12 you did the first part much better than I did. I think its a route worth working on.
I also think we should give that blue camo a go on a regular basis, its good for stamina.
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