Sunday, April 20, 2008

Bright and early

Just over four hours of climbing with Joe, Alex, Kenway and Joana in New Rochelle. Alex and Joe took Metro North with me, which was, as the website says, super easy. We arrived right when the doors opened, and were followed shortly thereafter by Kenway and Joana (both of who climbed yesterday!). Joe started off the day working the sequencing on his 8+ project, and Alex roped up for the first time, cruised his first 6s and 7s and discovered the wonderful effects of pumping out (Eric Horst on Slowing the Pump Clock, more here). Kenway worked out all the moves on Obe's 12 (purple) up front (which we subsequently watched a regular lead in style), and worked the bottom half of a yellow 12 on the same wall. Joana discovered an awesome stemmy 9+ and worked on a technical slab (9 green, Obe) in the back. I spent all day chickening out of the lead test, but at least I finally sent the slab (10 red, Obe) in the back that has been giving me grief (with a loose hold no less!). Bouldering interspersed throughout.


Joe, Joana and I finished off the day in the best way possible, burgers and beer at the Corner Bistro. I could deal with making that a regular thing.


Some inspiration for the guys thinking of climbing in Portugal:azóia - portugal by jandiro

2 comments:

kenny g said...

Getting some critical mass for some nice big group sessions!

Man, I was regretting not hitting Corner Bistro with you guys, a beer and a burger is *the* prescribed post-climb sustenance. On many a long multi-pitch rappel, visions of beer and burgers have combated exhaustion to drive a quick return to the car (well, that and dehydration).

Good find on Horst's depump technique. I try to apply it but often end up forgetting, or shaking out very perfunctorily - sometimes I am wary that resting would wear me out more than just climbing through, but maybe I just need a more efficient depump.

brian said...

There's always next time, although we didn't manage to leave until 5:30!