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8 comments:
I hate rapping too, and agree about knots at the end as well as usually slapping on a backup autoblock.
In this case, though, the accident was a lowering one - the climber was being lowered by a belayer on the ground, from bolted anchors on a too-short rope. Just to show that it can happen to anybody, the climber was Rich Romano, longtime climber and old time Gunks hardman. Thread over at Gunks.com here.
BTW, while we're at it, climbers have started a project to raise money to pay for some of Rich's medical bills, as mentioned in this ST thread.
Neat looking laminated topos of Millbrook at the Gunks. Might pick up some the next time I roll through Rock and Snow.
Good call, skimmed a bit too quickly. Not a bad idea to throw a knot into the belayer's side of the rope to protect against this.
Let's tie knots guys.
This was really hard to read.
BTW it made me realize I am not sure I know what the best things to do would be if something like this happened to one of us. Maybe next time we are in the car Kenway you should brief me a little on certain basic things. I have a few specific questions that came to mind when reading this.
Don't know if you guys have noticed, but I have gotten into a habit of even tying knots into the ends of ropes at the gym. Just a habit, really, but no good reason not to.
I really should brush up on Wilderness First Response procedures, I only know a few key points:
1. secure the airway (make sure they can breathe)
2. don't move if there's risk of spinal injury
3. stop major bleeding
4. send for help asap
So with respect to this specific story. Here are some things I wondered about.
She moved the body to get it to a more comfortable spot and raised the legs. 1) Was moving the body the best reaction and 2) I thought raising the legs was to avoid in a case like this because it increase the blood to the head (which is bleeding).
Clearly she did the right things in the sense that he is saved and it sounds like he's making a full recovery, but I was unsure about when you should leave someone who's injured and when you should stay with them.
Also, in a case like this, how do you reduce the bleeding?
I'm not too sure about moving him, to be honest it doesn't sound like the exact right response but we don't know the specifics. If he was laying in a way that was restricting his breathing, you might want to reposition, but it clearly looked like a fall with possible spine/neck trauma (which it ended up being).
With enough people, there are ways to move the victim while stabilizing the spine. Tough to do solo though.
Not sure about raising the legs, the point of raising them is to increase the volume to the rest of the body (heart, head) to prevent hypovolemic issues. Not so much getting blood to the head as getting it out of the legs.
You can stop the bleeding for scalp lacerations which will help. Just find something and apply pressure - t-shirt, jacket, gauze in a med kit if you have it...
Pressure to scalp wounds is complicated, of course, if there's a possible fracture.
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