Tuesday, February 16, 2010

"Bring them on" (A President's day special)

After our hearts were broken on Valentine's day, Kenway and I tried our luck with a visit to Brooklyn Boulders on President's day.

We started in the "steep" room on the first wall to your left when you enter with a V1 that was straightforward. We both managed to downclimb it as well.

We then tried a far from obvious V2 on the opposite wall. It involves a hard first move (due to the bizarre shape of the hold you had to catch) followed by grabbing a hold on the side wall, then you would bring your left foot to the start hold. The crux move is the following, you needed to do a hand-foot match (right hand) which required a lot of flexibility, or you could bump your hand on the wall first and hope friction was going to keep your hand there as you moved your foot up. The rest of the problem was easier. Kenway did it in the most unusual way, I doubt it was meant to be done like that...

In the same section we did a nice V3 that was mostly a stemming problem.

We followed it with a V4 that started in the same spot, but then traveled under the arch and finished with a big move on the opposite side of the arch. I barely managed with a big throw of my right hand (which means my feet came off). Kenway did it with more grace, going almost static in a cross with his left hand (keeping his feet on the wall).

The following V5 was not an easy one. It started on the left wall (when standing at the entrance of the room) under the arch then moved to a big inverted mountain directly under the arch that you could only grab by friction and needed to pull on from below (palm of your hand facing you). Then you could match on that piece, again really pulling in and moving your hips up. The next move was to bring your left hand around the arch to grab an awkward piece. After moving your feet up, you could match on that piece, then grab the next to hand holds, move your feet way high on a jib on the arch, and then gun for the finish.

After than we mover to the section in the entrance and worked slowly the yellow V5 from last time for about 20 minutes. Neither of us succeeded, but Kenway came really close to doing it.

All in all a good president's day.

1 comment:

kenny g said...

It felt like a particularly tough session, maybe I just wasn't fully recovered from the weekend's misadventures. G was climbing much better than me, the only way I could outdo him was to outreach him in certain spots (specifically, the static throw at the end of the V4 and reaching the high pinch on the V5).

Re: ice climbing next week: did you guys notice that Alpine Endeavors has an icefest going on? Not sure what it means for us, other than the fact that it might be a bit crowded in spots.