Triskaidekaphobia
The other night, over G's fancy vegetarian dinner, we hatched a quite unreasonable plan: spurred on by Ms. Pssst, it was decided that we would hit up one of the new 13s at TRC. Despite first dibs issues being totally stymied by an apparent inability to play Rock-Paper-Scissors (I knew what you knew I knew you knew, G), Guillaume and I went to TRC with Joana and Eric to give it a go.
After warming up on a steep 9 (yellow) and a reachy 10 (white), we headed over to the 13 (red), which trends left and up along the right side of the main arch on small handholds and jibs. G had the honor of going first, and did not disappoint; none of the moves were impossible, but the clipping stances are strenuous - think small holds - and linking them together proved tough tonight. G delivered an awesome clip above the 5th bolt, heel hooking and clipping from a rather sketchy looking stance. At least he linked together a few clips, which is more than I did as I hangdogged my way up. In the end, we sieged the route up to the 6th bolt, but there's a long leftward bump to a sidepull crimp right before the last bolt and anchors that shut us down. Afterwards, G hit up a black 10 up and under the roof with a biiiig reach around to get the holds on the vertical wall above, and we TR'ed (or attempted to) a few 12s: black slab in the back, crimpy dynamic black near the slab (which Ms. Pssst worked too), and a stemmy red corner route in the front. I was pretty spent. Eric and Joana worked both TR and lead climbs, and seemed to be getting good work in, though I missed much of it. Jojo did finish up the night by racing to the back to attack the slab 12 (red), and made good progress up the first half moves.
Finished off the night with decidedly non-vegetarian fare at Black Iron. Mmmmm....
2 comments:
I love it, check out this poster http://worldrps.com/images/rpsver3/Museum/scissorscut.jpg
Readers of the world, do not trust Kenway, he did better than I did on that 13, despite the impression his posts give. That transition we got stuck at looks very difficult. I am hoping that if we get the beta for the first part down, we'll have more juice once we get there next time.
The 10 black is super fun. At the apex of the arch you have to cut your feet, turn and restart on the other side, you are completely tangled in the chain and the rope, and you have to bump way out, followed by a hook. Nice!
The Miss Pssst highly recommended 12 red slab is not easy, but doable. For those who want to try it, the open ledge is off.
That was a lot of climbing. I am tired.
Man, it was a tough night! I'd call our work on that climb a definite collaborative siege, and that we figured out the moves in full cooperation (with a lot of repetition).
G made that red slab 12 up front look really good, but I was too tired to try it.
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