Coke + Nescafé = ???
Guillaume and I made a last-minute decision to skip the carpet-bomber and head up to the Bouldering Showdown at the TRC. Rocked out to the Harlem Shakes (and Fugazi's Waiting Room, ask for G's rendition of the bassline sometime, it's not half-bad!) on the way up as Guillaume tried his best to explain the insanity that is a bouldering competition. I had planned on just watching, as my ass was (and still is) super-sore, but Guillaume objected. What could I say?
We arrived right on time (7PM), and holy crap the gym was packed! We got our wristbands and tick lists, and started climbing shortly after. The gym had all new problems, and they set them everywhere. Problems for all styles; steep, vertical, dynamic, technical, you name it, they set it. I stayed mainly in the V3(?) range, and Guillaume stayed mostly in the range of grades above that. I jumped on a lot of really fun problems (including an awesome problem set by Msss Pssst herself), and nearly broke my neck on a long high traverse where I popped off on a mantle-to-high-foot match. Guillaume managed to finish a really tough problem that went over the tunnel; crazy hug/mantle on giant sloper. I saw many people try this and fail.
Overall, lots of fun, if a bit chaotic. I saw some of the strongest climbers I have ever seen send crazy problems, and we got a to watch BigUp Productions premier of Chris Sharma sending Jumbo Love (5.15b). 300 feet of insanity. I don't even think I could climb a 300 foot ladder.
Plus, I learned this little tidbit from Guillaume on the drive back:
12 comments:
Ah, wish I could have made it... Sounded like a good time, if a little crazy.
We'll hit up those problems soon when it's a little quieter - Sunday morning, perhaps?
If that little equation means what I think it means, I have some experimenting to do...
Dammit, I just googled Coke and Nescafe, and you know what comes up?
This...
Great problems. All three problems by miss Psst were very good. The yellow and the blue both on the hard end of the spectrum.
Man Google is quick. Can't wait for Brian to give us the Google analytic results...
Hey, as procrastination I was reorganizing my rack, and I realized I have to replace a few missing stoppers. Might run down to EMS just for a looksee.
Anybody need anything?
BTW Brian has $10 off at EMS.
Also, Rock and Snow have a Cam card, buy 5 and the 6th is 50% off.
I now have .4, .5, .75, 1, 2, and 3.
Kenway, whatever you meant by experimenting, do not mix climbing to the equation.
Hey, if I'm poking you, that means "hurry up and start leading".
G, that means between you and me, we have a double rack of cams in the sizes that count. Doubt I would take doubles on most of the climbs at the Gunks, but doubles in a few sizes might be handy.
You are ready to lead, my friend. (Or at least look like a leader walking through the parking lot).
FYI, quick inventory of my stuff:
- BD microstoppers 1-6
- tricams .5(x2),.75,1,1.5,2,2.5
- BD stoppers 1-13 (missing 10)
- Metolius stoppers 1-10 (missing 1,3)
- Aliens green(0.5),yellow(.75),red(1)
- BD .5,.75,.75,1,2,3,4
I am feeling the aftermath of the NJRG 4 hours session + TRC comp 3 hours. The pain in my tendons won't let me sleep! Great timing with the outdoor season just starting...
As for the equation Kenway, this was reported to me by graduate students who apparently discovered a certain side effect to a cocktail designed to wake them up for a soccer game.
Good info for climbing-related elbow injuries from Dave Macleod and Eric J. Hörst. Also an interesting mention of the effectiveness of Celebrex.
G, don't worry bout the tendons for trad, it will be all about the stances and getting pro - at least at the beginning.
I think, though, you oughta stay off the crimpy stuff for a few weeks - slopers, overhangs, big holds for now.
Cmon, doesn't this look tendon-safe?
Notice the double ropes: nice.
BTW I had completely forgotten to mention that Brian thinks he saw a mannequin where he previously saw something just as unusual on our way back...
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