Chaos
Guillaume, Chloe and I arrived at the TRC just as a camera crew was walking inside. I thought, hmmm, that's a little weird. Then we got inside, where it was even crazier. So imagine this: a camera crew wandering around with a bunch of Japanese women in tow, it's meet-up night, and finally there's 4-5 tables full of climbing shoes cause I guess it's shoe demo night. Chaos. The camera crew was apparently from the Japanese version of MTV's Made. I heard that one of the women was "coaching" one of the other women on how to get a date. They accosted some poor friend of G's, who ended up spending most of his night teaching some girl how to climb.
Despite the craziness, we all managed to get some good climbing in. G and I started off leading a 9- and a 9, respectively, then moved up to an 11- (purple) up the side of the arch, which Guillaume onsighted, and I needed 1 rest for. Guillaume's sequence went 11 (blue), 11c (orange) and 12 (purple). All nice looking climbs, and he took some monster falls on the first two where he ended up right above my head. I went for 10 (yellow), 10 (purple) and 11 (brown). The first two were fun, and I really liked the 11, although it was not the best to end the night with (technical, super-crimpy for the first 2/3 and slopers for the finish). Chloe bounced between belays, but I saw her send a 9 for a nice warm-up, and then at some point she worked on a stiff 10+ (white). Two hand start on slopers to a small dish, followed by crimps to a roof. Yikes!
Lynne Hill stylin Midnight Lightning (V8), check out the backstep right near the start Chloe:

2 comments:
Strong work on the climbing, guys. Sounds like I missed a chance to be on Japanese TV (remind me to tell you about the whites-vs-asian rowing documentary I found myself in BITD). Brian, I KNOW they thought you could have been a Japanese rock star...
The best thing about the Lynn Hill Midnight Lightning video is if you watch it next to videos of other people (mostly guys) climbing the same problem - she makes it look so much more graceful and in control.
What a night! That was some fun climbing. Let's hope we climb that well on Sunday.
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