Whatever you do...
Don't google dildonic plague. Just don't. Such was the lesson learned after another suitably helter-skelter midweek trip to New Rochelle, one involving apocalyptic science fiction, interrupted linguistic lessons, and helmets worn in the van.
There was a little climbing too: Joana and Chloe went for it on some 9s and 10s, and I saw them working quite hard at some intricate moves.Lots of new routes to lead, and Brian, Guillaume and I tried an assortment of new climbs: teal 9, two ungraded browns (rumored at 10, seems a little low), pink 11?, and a red 10 in the back. The 10 and 11 in front were devious, funky climbing, on and around a sequence of two giant pyramidal volumes. Not quite a stalactite, but sure felt like one looking down between your legs. Great moves to me, but it was hard to figure out the beta while worrying about landing on the point clipping above those. No real flow tonight for any of us on lead, strength was there (people looked good on individual moves) but endurance was not - maybe a product of the climbing.
5 comments:
Man, the Google spiders are fast. We're on the second page of search results already...
Joana, see the fruits of your creativity?
There was also the brown 10 along the back of the arch, with that shitty double dish at the second clip...
As much as I complained, G made good choices. All the climbs had hard starts and required pretty thoughtful climbing (especially if you planned on having children - the possibility, even if remote, of falling onto the point of a pyramid added a certain spiciness to the climbs). A nice change from the roofy jugfests.
Quote of the night: "The only way to get rid of dildonic plague is to carpet bomb it."
Now that's a quote!
About my ice trip, there is bad news: its too cold (-27 Friday night)! Which means the ice is brittle and its too hard to keep your hands warm as they are above your heart most of the time on long climbs... but there is hope of some short climbs. I shall keep you posted.
I still can't believe we weren't the first to come up with the dildonic plague.
Wow, I completely blanked on the climb in the back - talk about selective memory. I agree with Brian, thought the climbs were interesting, thought-provoking, and generally challenging. Not just usual pumpfest.
Good luck G with the ice. At least it'll be cold...
Damn it! I just couldn't resist the stupid link!
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