Speed lead

Predator (5.13b), Rumney, NH

OK, none of the climbing was particularly speedy, but a nice short concentrated session of climbing with Brian and Eric at TRC tonight. Rainy weather and cautious drivers made for a long trip to the gym, but in a little under 2 hours of climbing we lead 2 routes each and got in a little bouldering.

Brian started off in style, hitting up a 9+ up the overhanging prow in front (white). I warmed up on a new 10 up the same spot, a little tricky getting over the small roof (big reach) with smaller than expected hands up top. Eric was methodical in his first real lead, nice controlled climbing between bolts and rests on a vertical 9 (pink) up front - smart idea to concentrate on technique and good habits. We talked about getting good stances and climbing to the bolt instead of reaching high and pulling excess slack, which Brian demonstrated well on the yellow 10, reaching high to a good hold for the last clip - much better idea than the stance I picked below, from a sketchy left handed pinch. Eric also hit up a 9 (purple/white) with tricky technical climbing to the first bolt, and pumpy moves up the big diagonal overhang.

I finally managed to see the finishing moves on the Mad Russian 11 (red), using Guillaume's acrobatic beta for the crux clip - good right hand pinch, right foot way up high on a jib, left leg flagged under, laid out horizontal for a clip far left. Not styling, with a couple of rests on the way (and a nice catch by Brian) - Guillaume, the race to link it up is on!

From talking with another climber, Dan, there's a few 12s we should hit up, he says they're probably as hard or maybe a bit easier than the (sandbagged) 11.