Thursday, August 7, 2008

Older boulder



Short (but intense!) session at TRC yesterday with Brian, Joana, and Eric. Stuck mostly to bouldering, as we got a late start out of the city. Worked mostly V4 and V5 with Brian today, with varying levels of success. We all worked a great new yellow bouldering league problem in the overhanging cave, reachy and lots of core tension repositioning - definitely the work of a +ape index setter (and definitely not a V2). Eric worked a nice V2+ (brown and pink) with a match to a big overhanded throw while horizontal, which you follow with a nice slow motion swing across to feet on the opposite arete, and we all found a different way to send a underclingy white V2+ in the back. JK cleared a nice V3 as a warmup, and then trailed a lead rope up and practiced her lead moves, and not backclipping. We're going to have two new leaders soon!

Proving once again that I'm really good at figuring out beta for climbs I can't climb, I watched Brian send a V5 up an overhanging arete - off balance throw with the left hand, reach to the right followed by cutting the feet and a very long stretch to toe a jib waay out right, tricky hand match and then up. Despite racing the closing bell, I kept missing the last catch.

Almost sent the V4 (purple) that the Brain and I have been working on, more Matrix-esque body tension moves on smaller-than-ideal hands; managed to throw out my back and pull a calf cramp in the same damn move. As for my strategy of treating back pain, see WeTheRobots above. Lesson learned, to paraphrase Kool Krack Koiller:

"Sometimes bending over backwards is just wrong" - JK

6 comments:

g said...

Love the strip, love the quote, still jealous.

brian said...

The quote is incorrect.

Oh, and Guillaume, we managed to tap the finish on the pink V5 that starts with the two-handed undercling on the blue block to high-step, with the last left hand on the green crimp. It's positive, but no one could latch to finish it off.

kenny g said...

Yeah, I couldn't remember the quote. And even texting Joana didn't help, as she couldn't quite remember it either.

That's why I paraphrased it...

kenny g said...

See, it's not just the back that goes as you age...

brian said...

Sigh ...

The context was Bikram yoga versus pole-dancing, and the quote (re. Bikram), was:

'Bent over isn't always a good thing.'

g said...

Love the new version of the quote.