Packing the mini-van
Got a whole gang of people packed into Guillaume's newly re-suspended mini-van for a trip to New Rochelle (G, Kenway, Kristy, Joe and Joana). We arrived to catch some of the Team Rock Club climbers polishing off some new 11s and 12s. Everyone seemed up for a change of pace today: Kenway and Guillaume took the lead test and spent most of the night dusting off their lead skills. The rest of us top-roped briefly (just long enough for Joe and Joana to make a beeline for that slab in the back and send it), and then spent the rest of the night bouldering. This was my first time trying it seriously (after hearing Kenway pop a pulley some months ago). That is some hard stuff. And it didn't help that Guillaume and Kenway came over at the end and flashed my project (G doing it mostly without his legs). Sigh...
Oh, and thanks to Guillaume and Joe, I now have been scarred by images of the two of them rubbing cow udder cream all over themselves.
Some video from the recent Gravity Brawl (via Dr. Topo, thanks Guillaume):
5 comments:
That is one stylin' minivan...
Bouldering is very different from most of the climbing that we've done; big moves and lots of body control. I expect once you get the hang of it you'll be flashing those problems pronto, Brian.
Man, I had forgotten how much of a mental game leading is. Easy moves on toprope felt very sketchy due to the mere fact of being 3 feet above the bolt. The lead test was straightforward with easy climbing, though; as long as you're comfortable clipping it'll be a breeze...
Yeah, if you give me a clipping refresher next time, I may just take the lead test.
at least its not images of them rubbing cream on each other.
Whenever you're ready, Brian. We'll run through some practice clipping first. The climbing is easy on the test, but you can burn a lot of strength and energy finding an efficient clipping stance and futzing with the clip.
Leading adds a little spiciness to the climbing fer sure, and a good tool to have in the arsenal.
And just to put a perspective on things:
V0 ~ 5.10+
V3 ~ mid to high 5.11
There's no tried and true conversion between the Hueco bouldering and the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) grading scales, but here's an approximation.
And, Joe, you're in luck:
climbing in Portugal
Cascais climbing
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