Joshua Tree TR 11/08/2007

Early last Thursday, Eric and I left unseasonably cold and damp Santa Monica and headed towards the high desert and the promise of sunshine, stopping by to pick Brian up along the way. Nothing but clouds and fog and thinning traffic as we drove east. Somewhere along the way we made a pit stop for gas and goodies, only to get back on the road to find lifting fog and the previously hidden San Bernadino and San Jacinto Mountains rising to either side of us.

Amazing sight as we neared the spot where 62 splits off north from the 10 to wrap north and east around the park - windmill farms, stretching as far as the eye could see in the valleys and over the hillsides.



Finally rolled into Jtree around 10:30 in the morning, trying to scope out lines on the formations as we headed south into the park:


After much discussion we decided on Cyclops Rock, which Brian and I had scoped out earlier as having some nice easy single-pitch lines for our first group foray into trad. It's a short jaunt across the road from the Hidden Valley parking lot:


We headed for The Eye, a long 5.4 on the north face that's pleasantly well-shaded from the noontime sun:


The climb starts with a long low angle gully whose ease makes up for the lack of any real protection:


Dig that attentive belayer! Excellent job lead-belaying, though my fat ass didn't really put Brian to the test (thought fer sure I would...).


After the less-than-vertical gully, the line passes several ledges with easy but exposed moves on good handholds to the right.



The climb ends in a sweet slot cave, hidden from the ground, that leads out the back to the walkoff, with plenty of anchoring options for a gear belay. Brian skated up quickly and did an excellent job seconding, cleaning all the gear despite my tendency to place tricams and overcam Aliens...




Eric's locked and loaded...


Brian trailed a second line to Eric, who flew up as well, and pretty soon we were sitting in the shade of the cave and looking back out over HVC and the parking loop.



Mucho props to Eric for doing photog duty all day.


Next up: Spaghetti and Chili (5.7), around the corner on the SW face of Cyclops. The climb ascends the ramp to the left facing flake, with the crux being getting up and around onto the lieback. Then straight up past juggy plates to a fun hands/fingers finish.


We setup belay on the outside of the right-heading ramp, a little toastier for the belayer but this position affords a much better view of the leader and the climb. No real protection until you get up to the edge of the ramp, below the left-facing flake.


There's plenty of options for good gear under the flake...


Perfect example of the mind messing with the body: I knew the line had to get to the flake, but once I was below it the move just seemed too tricky, leaving me looking for an imaginary way up and to the right. Seriously, nothing up there but little crumbling edges...


After twenty minutes of gear fiddling, back and forth (and up and down) pacing, and much needless chalking, a little beta from a passing local and bit of just sacking up allowed me to make the (in retrospect) easy but committing move onto the flake and run it out to the ledge above.



Above mentioned helpful local, free soloing stuff I'm not sure we would climb even roped up.


After the flake, the climb moves past some huge but veeery hollow sounding plates and a little cave off to the right (no overprotective bird).


There's a neat little diagonal crack at the top that takes small hands or fingers, with a topout to a two bolt anchor and excellent views.


Next, Brian followed with a little more style and a lot less wasted time.




Whew!


So, is the hollow ringing when I tap this rock supposed to be soothing?


Nope, no bird in the cave but there are excellent views of the desert...



A little burly lieback, some juggy plates and ledges, then some technical crack climbing? Sweet!



Eric, ready to go? Time to get the game face on...


Eric came up even quicker, sending the crux flake in one go, in time for us to watch the late afternoon sun cast long Joshua tree shadows across the desert floor.


Ahh, rockin' the butterfly coil: well on the way to trad hardman status already, none of that Hollywood mountaineer's coil crap for Brian...


Time for one more run at a climb, gentlemen?


We humped our way back to the car for a run at SW corner, a short climb on a massive block perched atop the Headstone formation. It's a fun, exposed, and bolted (JT style) route with fantastic views, but we were rapidly running out of daylight and unclear on the scramble up to the start of the climb.



With Eric being the first to let wisdom overrule desire, we called it a day and descended by headlamp for the car.



Ah well, there's beer waiting...