Thursday, October 9, 2008

Gravitas

Spun up to TRC for a little climbing with Eric, Brian, and a new climbing partner Nico, a Canadian with alpine experience under his belt (welcome!). Climbing was tough tonight, and we all worked on different TRs and leads. Nico got back into the climbing groove (and more importantly, a solid belaying groove). Eric methodically worked a 9 and 9+ (yellow) on lead, with focus on getting good clipping stances, Brian attacked the long and steep angling 10 (turquoise) on lead and a tricky 11 (green) right up an arete up front, and I fumbled through a 10, 11, and a wicked new Obe 12 (hearts on white) on the Mad Russian column. The 12 is great climbing - long reaches, open handed pinches, high feet, and balancey clips down low followed by a series of underclings once you reach the steep underside of the arch; a new project perhaps?

Some re-rating updates (especially for you, Guillaume):
Good news: the red Mad Russian 11 is now a 12
Bad news: Pssst's previously unrated hearts on white is an 11 (!)

Score one for subjectivity, eh? They're all hard to me...

Ended the night waiting out on the street in the LES for AAA to come and let me back into my car, which I had locked myself out of with the engine running. Some observations:
- there are many free cabs at 2 in the morning
- drunk people are less funny when you're sober
- hipsters rock some styling outfits on bicycles
- many construction vehicles look like tow-trucks, especially when you've been waiting hours for one
- don't lock your keys in your car

15 comments:

g said...

First, I am so envious. I am feeling weaker everyday. I WANT TO CLIMB!

Second, 11?!? That hurts. So I can't even climb 11 on TR, man and I thought I was improving. I'm depressed now.

But it looks like you guys had a good session. Congrats Brian on getting on an 11 on lead, way to go!

kenny g said...

Don't worry, the climbing was not comfortable by any means - I was definitely bolt to bolt on the 12 and didn't even try to top out.

brian said...

No 11s on lead for me last night, although I worked a couple on toprope (the green 11 by JAJ up front is awesome). Heavy gravity day.

Oh, and for the record, there is a bet on the table. One dinner at Chickens Gone Wild if Kenway climbs in full racquetball get-up, short shorts, goggles, tank top...

g said...

Given our usual ride home, I can imagine how it ended up that some wager was made about somebody wearing something stupid to climb in, but did it end up being that outfit?

kenny g said...

You mean like this?
Surprisingly (or not), this started even before we climbed.

kenny g said...

Hey if there is a Halloween climb, I promise to come in full wacky racky-ball regalia. It'd be a shame not to put my Elvis suit to use too, though...

g said...

Oh, blue balls, I see... makes complete sense now!

BTW did you catch up on the burpees?

I still can't believe an 11 with hearts kicked my ass...

kenny g said...

It is not an 11! Maybe I misread it or something, or they modded the route - didn't get on it to find out.

I am at least doing the current quota, but have a wicked backlog.

brian said...

I was going to let you keep fretting about that 11 w/ hearts, but you sound like you are going to cry, so I'll mention that Kenway pointed out that they added a critical foothold ...

g said...

Thanks for the try, but this will be only resolved by me and heart-break route meeting again!

I have been flexing my black diamond trainer all morning hoping it would make me feel better: no such luck.

brian said...

Any more links to sex toys will be marked as spam and promptly deleted. You have been warned.

Psss McDonald said...

Don;t worry guys....the 11 was changed....many new feet. I think it's probably still pretty hard though. Let me know what you guys think!

kenny g said...

Alrighty, the challenge is down, new hearts route it is...

Be there or be ^2.

g said...

Wow, now I am really nervous to try it! I think I liked it better unrated.

Scott said...

like your links!