Leading off

Long (seriously, like 5+ hours) but excellent day at TRC with Brian, Joana, and Eric. It was worth it, as we got in a good amount of bouldering and leading, and E and J finally received proper leading instruction.

To start, we worked a spectrum of bouldering routes in the V0-V4/5 range, notably the V3 overhanging traverse (pink/white), a V4 in the corner with thin hands up a overhanging dihedral (pink), and a straight-over the roof V4 with a very Guillaume-like foot hook (purple camo). Joana showed serious determination and style on the traverse, and Eric may just have figured out a shoe selection that works on the technical stuff, hitting some V1s and V2s. Brian and I also worked a V6 involving a juggy pinch match move into a two-finger tips pocket, and then a throw around the lip to *thin* holds above. Could feel tendons creaking on that one; maybe next time. There was a lot of wagering and bluster about flashing a V9, but despite the hobbit spotting no one could touch anything beyond the third hold.

Thoroughly pumped out, we roped up for some leading, with Brian flashing a 9 up the prow in front (white) and finishing off the 10 across the arch roof (black). I dogged my way up an 11 on the prow (orange), good reachy moves but I should be able to link it up next time - might try using all the holds next time, too. We both worked the red up the left side of the arch, previously unmarked but now designated an (perhaps soft) 11. Negotiating the two hanging chain draws was the tricky bit, but we ultimately worked through it. I retried the Mad Russian 11, using Guillaume's acrobatic clipping beta; the stance felt solid, but due to repeated muffs of the clip I kept whipping off the crux - thanks for the catch, Blau...

And in exciting news, Eric and Joana took lead instruction from TRC's Pierre, learning how to find a good stance, position for the clip, and execute it cleanly. They both hit the lead wall, first on toprope backup then for the real deal. Joana in particular learned the importance of not back- or Z-clipping. Big ups to Eric, who aced his first lead climb (orange 9) and proceeded to both catch a big whipper and take one himself off the arch. Ah, the art of falling: learn to love that feeling...

We finished off the day in the East Village's Curry Row, finding out that dinner decisions can be hard, beer tastes better with lemonade, and Brian is the piggyback master. Life lessons: to paraphrase our waiter/comic, "It ain't physics..."