Wednesday, March 26, 2008


Late session at New Rochelle with Guillaume. Felt much like the other day, except Guillaume picked harder routes for me to flail on. Worked on a couple 11s and 12s but felt a little clumsy with footwork. Bouldering at the end suggests that overall pulling (grip and power) strength needs work.

Guillaume reminded me there's a bouldering comp at the NJRG this weekend. I'm far too weak to climb, but if anyone wants to check it out...

Top photo is of Ray Jardine on the roof crack Separate Reality (5.12) in Yosemite (this video and this video give you a better feel for the climb). Both photos are from an excellent iconic photo thread over on ST. Jardine was an avid climber and engineer who developed the first mass-produced active camming device - the aptly-named Friend; this photo on the cover of Mountain magazine helped spread the word of the technical revolution to come and the accompanying expanded possibilities for climbing.

2 comments:

brian said...

The cam article is awesome.

kenny g said...

Yeah, it's an incredible article, reinforces how bold those early climbers were without active protection (and how desperately they were looking for it).

My favorite pic is of the Valley giants.