Training for climbing and climbing for training
Nice long session at New Rochelle with Eric and Brian today. In an impressive display of economic planning, both Eric and Brian laid out for 10 session multipasses (in an equally impressive display of cash-strapped frugality, I'm holding off til next time).
Spent most of the time working on climbs at our limit (ranging from 5.9 to 5.11/5.12), which strikes a good balance with working technical precision and efficiency on easier routes. On these overhanging, more demanding routes there's a small zone between getting pumped and totally fried where you're forced to be efficient, and it's a great way to learn good technique.
For those interested in getting serious about climbing, there are two well-received training books. How to Climb 5.12 is the classic one, written by Eric Horst, who also developed HIT (Hypergravity Isolation) training - mostly geared towards developing power and grip strength. Newer, but also recommended, is The Self-Coached Climber by Hague and Hunter which focuses on the balance and movement.
Some online resources:
Dave McLeod's coaching blog
Eric Horst's Training for Climbing site
Some inspiration:
War and Peace (5.9), Rumney, NH
Jolt (5.10b), Rumney, NH
Waimea (5.10d), Rumney, NH
Yaak Crack (5.11d), Red Rock Canyon, NV
Predator (5.13b), Rumney, NH
7 comments:
Scott, get better soon!
Great session! Great problems starting with a funky 5.9 "warm-up" to the tricky 5.10d (purple; Kenway discovered why that guy was hangdogging it last time, I didn't even get past the roof).
Good progress all around.
It was a great climbing session. I definitely climbed to total muscle failure (at least for grip). Brian did some very nice work on some tricky problems, especially that 5.11 in the back. I'm still working on balance, but I could see some improvement--it's interesting that the 5.8 that gave me a bit of trouble at the end of the day when Scott and I went up I was able to send extremely quickly.
Got a lot of problems that I've been thinking about for next time. (Brian's warning that I might start dreaming about the problems may have helped.)
I totally go through movement sequences in my sleep!
I put a up a few pics for inspiration, but some of these are definitely within our reach (I took a 25 foot whipper off of Yaak Crack a few years ago). Jolt at Rumney goes up this massive fin of rock that has an excellent 5.9 on the other side (Dolt).
Anybody want to go to New Rochelle with Guillaume this Wednesday?
I'd be up for doing another day of climbing this week too (close by, probably), as I'm gone this weekend...
I'm out for this week, popping ibuprofen like crazy to keep my elbow functional.
Brian, bummer about the elbow, rest is certainly the key. When I had tenosynovitis I was up at 600 mg ibuprofen TID (max recommended is 800 mg TID, I think).
Also, don't forget the ice...
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