Climbing like a swan, part II
Spent a couple of hours at the Rock Club with Guillaume and Kenway (surprise show-up by Tom and Rick). Guillaume convinced everyone to warm up on a new 5.10, and it just got harder from there. I tried out a few of the problems that these guys had worked last time (black 5.11 up front and the 5.12- with the peanut). Using beta for people under 30, Tom flashed the 5.12-, while Kenway and I got stuck on the peanut (awful heel-hook and mantle move). The move of the night goes to Kenway the mercifully to-be-unnamed old guy who, while attempting to use beta for people under 30 (tisk tisk), actually managed to kick his own hand off of a hold! To his credit though, he did flash a nice new 5.11 set by Obe that wrapped around an arete. There are 3 new routes on that arete, 5.10-12, all set by Obe, all very bouldery with his classic awkward sequencing. I got pumped out on the 5.10, while Guillaume and Kenway worked the 5.12.
Tim Bretl's climbing robot (climbing would be so much easier if I was circularly symmetric!):
2 comments:
Ha, with his control lines trailing the robot totally looks like he's lead climbing!
And Brian I think you're going to totally work that peanut next time. There's no way I'm going to get it fer sure...
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