Two hours of climbing at New Rochelle with Brian, Guillaume, and Tom (a Palladium climber usually). Guillaume stuck the 5.11 that's been haunting him since we first went - by cruising it as his warmup - and we all worked some almost vertical slab routes in the back: small, balancey, reachy moves but satisfying to send.
As Brian noted, we're moving away from the long, overhanging jug hauls that were so tempting when we first climbed there, and are now hitting more technical and intricate climbs with smaller holds. Increasing the repertoire is great for skill-building, and should transfer well to the outdoors.
Got a little lost on the way back (like Long Island lost), as Guillaume regaled us with death-defying trad stories.
The Whitney-Gilman Ridge (II 5.7), 5 pitches of wild and exposed (but moderate) arete climbing in Franconia Notch, NH.
Wednesday, January 30, 2008
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9 comments:
Brian, did you crack those 5.10 and 5.11s in the back (set by OBE, I think)? Some of those were crazy. Nice work. I think I got up one 5.10 when I was there with Kenway and then got stuck on everything else.
Not sure if I tried the ones set by Obe, but I did try the 5.11 (orange?) set by Koots just to the left. Very desperate climb. I made it 4 moves in and couldn't stick the next move, which required good wide pinch strength. Kenway ticked off one of Obe's 5.11 (yellow), and Guillaume cleared the entire wall.
I've got some very nice 5.10 projects up front (white and green). Got 1 move higher on the white this time, and 3 moves higher on the green (they fixed the loose piece). All in all, progress is good (I was a little surprised to find that this climb is the 20th time I've climbed; seems like we've been at it longer).
And damn, that was a hell of a detour ...
Yeah, I think it took me almost as long to enter by hand in the google pedometer as to drive it. Tried to use Google directions and drag points to change the suggested route, but it was so far off the path it wouldn't let me make all the changes.
Major props for you from the veteran climbers who were watching you climb, BTW, Brian - you have a good sense of movement and power. That green 5.10 in the slightly overhung corner is a good one!
Anyone interested in a morning climbing trip to New Rochelle this weekend?
I may be up for climbing this weekend (in the morning). My elbows hurt like hell today, so I'm gonna see how they feel in a tomorrow before committing.
Also, we should work out some gas payment system for you drivers. Would a couple of bucks per person cover the gas and tolls?
I'm definitely in if we can get a climb in this weekend.
Payment? I'd take a steady belay, or a round of beers the next time we get off a mountain...
Geez guys, you really went out of your way there, huh? If I'm feeling better this weekend, I'd be interested in going for sure. I'll have to play it by ear though.
Way to send those climbs!
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